Trang

Discovering Trang

I almost skipped Trang. Every travel forum I read said the same thing — go to Krabi, go to Koh Lanta, go to Koh Lipe — and Trang barely registered as more than a transit point between them. The province does not market itself. There are no full moon parties, no Instagram-famous viewpoints, no international airport code that appears on bucket lists. When I told a hotel owner in Krabi I was heading south to Trang, he looked at me like I had misread a map. “Nothing there,” he said. “Just islands.”

He was right about the islands. He was wrong about the nothing.

Trang Province sits on Thailand’s lower Andaman coast, south of Krabi and north of Satun, and it controls access to a chain of islands that rank among the most beautiful in Southeast Asia. Koh Kradan, with its white sand and reef that starts at ankle depth. Koh Muk, home to the Emerald Cave — a sea cave you swim through in darkness before emerging into a hidden beach ringed by cliffs. Koh Ngai, a tiny resort island with water so clear you can read a book through it. Koh Libong, where wild dugongs graze in seagrass beds that have sustained them for centuries. These islands share the same Andaman water as Phuket and Phi Phi, but because they sit under Trang’s administrative umbrella rather than Krabi’s tourism machine, they receive a fraction of the visitors. The coral is healthier. The beaches are emptier. The prices are lower. And the dim sum — Trang’s other secret — is the best in southern Thailand.

I spent five days in Trang and left feeling like I had found a version of the Andaman coast that the rest of Thailand’s tourism industry had somehow overlooked. It was not raw or undeveloped — Trang town is a proper city with hospitals, shopping malls, and a train station — but the island-hopping circuit felt like stepping back to what Thai beach tourism must have been twenty years ago. Fewer boats, fewer people, more fish, more silence. The kind of travel where you eat breakfast at a noodle stall, catch a longtail to an island, snorkel over reef that nobody has anchored on, eat lunch on a beach with three other groups instead of thirty, and return sunburned and salt-crusted to a town where nobody is trying to sell you a cooking class or a zip line package.

What Makes Trang Different?

Trang’s advantage is structural, not just aesthetic. The province has no international airport — Trang Airport (TST) handles only domestic flights from Bangkok — and no direct ferry hub connecting to the northern Andaman tourism circuit. Getting here requires a deliberate decision, not a convenient layover, and that decision acts as a natural filter. The travelers who reach Trang’s islands tend to be the ones who researched beyond the first page of search results. The result is a quieter, less commercialized island experience than anything available within Krabi or Phuket’s orbit.

The marine environment reflects this. Koh Kradan’s house reef — snorkelable directly from the beach — has hard coral coverage that marine biologists have noted as among the healthiest on the Andaman coast. The national park fees go to actual conservation rather than infrastructure expansion. Koh Libong’s seagrass ecosystem supports one of Thailand’s last viable dugong populations. These are not marketing talking points. They are the observable consequences of lower boat traffic, fewer anchors on reef, and a provincial government that has prioritized marine preservation over rapid tourism development.

Trang town itself is the other surprise. While most Andaman coast gateways (Ao Nang, Patong, Krabi Town) have rebuilt themselves around tourist needs, Trang remains a working Thai city where tourism is a side business. The night market, the dim sum shops, the morning coffee culture — these exist because locals eat there, not because Lonely Planet listed them. Trang’s Chinese-Thai community has maintained a dim sum tradition that rivals anything in Bangkok’s Chinatown, served from rolling carts in century-old shophouses starting at 6 AM. I ate pork belly buns and shrimp dumplings for 80 THB ($2.25) and realized that the town itself was worth a day before heading to any island.

Which Islands Should You Visit from Trang?

Trang’s island chain runs roughly north-south along the Andaman coast, and each island has a distinct character. A single day trip can cover three or four, but staying overnight on at least one transforms the experience from a boat tour to something slower and more immersive.

Koh Kradan is the jewel. A long, narrow island with a white sand beach on the west coast and coral reef that begins in waist-deep water. The snorkeling here is among the best shore-access snorkeling in Thailand — reef fish, sea cucumbers, clownfish in anemones, the occasional reef shark patrolling the drop-off. The island has a handful of small resorts (no village, no town, no 7-Eleven) and a national park campground where you can rent a tent for 300 THB ($8.50). In February, Thailand holds an underwater wedding ceremony off Koh Kradan’s coast — one of the stranger cultural events on the Andaman calendar. The beach empties by mid-afternoon when the day-trip boats leave, and by sunset you are sharing it with a dozen people at most. For a detailed comparison of Koh Kradan’s snorkeling with other Andaman sites, see our snorkeling guide.

Koh Muk is where you go for the Emerald Cave (Tham Morakot). The cave entrance is a dark opening in a sheer limestone cliff at the island’s western edge. You swim in — life jacket on, following a guide with a waterproof torch — through about 80 meters of pitch-black cave, the ceiling inches above your head in places, the water lapping against rock walls you cannot see. Then the cave opens and you are standing on a small white sand beach inside a collapsed limestone chimney, open to the sky 100 meters above, jungle clinging to the vertical walls. It is one of the most extraordinary natural experiences in Thailand. Visit at low tide for the widest passage. Beyond the cave, Koh Muk has a small fishing village, Charlie Beach (a beautiful west-coast crescent with budget bungalows), and a pace of life that revolves around fishing schedules rather than tourist arrivals.

Koh Ngai (also written Koh Hai) is a small resort island with no village and no permanent local population — just a handful of resorts along the east coast and a reef that drops off sharply to deep water. The snorkeling off the eastern shore is excellent, with visibility often exceeding 15 meters. Koh Ngai functions as a lunch stop on most island-hopping tours, but the overnight stay reveals its quiet magic: bioluminescent plankton in the shallows after dark, and a sunrise over the mainland mountains that no day-tripper ever sees.

Koh Libong is the largest of Trang’s islands and the least touristic. The west coast has long, wild beaches; the east coast has mangrove forests and the seagrass beds where Thailand’s endangered dugongs feed. Dugong-watching boat trips depart early morning from the island’s east side, and while sightings are never guaranteed with wild animals, the success rate during high season is genuinely high. Koh Libong also has a strong Muslim fishing community, a bird-watching trail through the mangroves, and essentially no nightlife. It is the island for people who want to see the Andaman coast as it exists for the people who live there, not the people who visit.

What to Do in Trang

Four Islands Hopping Tour — The signature Trang day trip visits Koh Muk (Emerald Cave), Koh Kradan (beach and snorkeling), Koh Ngai (lunch stop), and Koh Chuek (coral reef). Longtail boat tours depart from Pak Meng or Hat Yao pier and run 1,200-1,800 THB ($34-51) per person including lunch, snorkeling gear, life jackets, and national park fees. Speedboat versions cost 1,500-2,500 THB ($43-71). November to April only. The longtail is slower but allows more time at each stop and fits the pace of the islands better. Book through hotels or pier agencies — no need to pre-book online.

Emerald Cave (Tham Morakot) — If you are not doing the full island-hopping tour, you can visit the Emerald Cave as a standalone trip from Koh Muk (longtail from Charlie Beach, 10 minutes, 100 THB / $2.85). National park fee is 200 THB ($5.70) for foreigners. Visit between 10 AM and 2 PM for the best light inside the collapsed chimney. Low tide gives the widest clearance in the cave passage. The cave floods at high tide and is occasionally closed during rough seas — check conditions at your guesthouse before heading out.

Dugong Spotting at Koh Libong — Early morning longtail boat trips (6-8 AM departure) cruise the seagrass beds off Koh Libong’s east coast where Thailand’s largest dugong population feeds. Trips run 1,500-2,000 THB ($43-57) per person from Koh Libong, or can be arranged as a full-day excursion from Trang town for 2,500-3,000 THB ($71-85). Sightings are most reliable from November to April when seas are calm and visibility is good. These are wild, protected animals — boats maintain respectful distance and engines cut when dugongs are spotted.

Rubber Plantation Tour — Trang is one of Thailand’s largest rubber-producing provinces, and half-day plantation tours (500-800 THB / $14-23) let you watch the 3 AM tapping process, see latex processing, and learn about the industry that employs most of rural Trang. It is not glamorous tourism, but it is the most honest window into how the province actually works. Several guesthouses in Trang town arrange visits to family-owned plantations.

Trang Night Market — Every evening from 5 PM, the streets around the train station and Ratchadamnoen Road fill with food stalls selling southern Thai Muslim specialties: roti with curry sauce, grilled satay, khao mok gai (turmeric chicken rice), and fresh fruit shakes. Budget 100-200 THB ($2.85-5.70) for a full meal. The market is entirely local — no tourist pricing, no English menus, no Instagram signage. Point at what looks good and you will not be disappointed.

Changlang Beach and Pak Meng Beach — The mainland coast south of Trang town has two long, quiet beaches that serve as departure points for the islands. Changlang Beach is the more developed (home to Anantara Si Kao resort), while Pak Meng is a working fishing beach with a few seafood restaurants and views of the offshore islands. Neither is a destination beach on its own, but both are pleasant for a sunset walk before or after island hopping. Pak Meng Beach has a dramatic limestone karst backdrop and a long, shallow tidal flat where locals dig for clams.

Where to Eat in Trang

Trang’s food identity is built on two pillars: dim sum and pork. The province’s Chinese-Thai community — descendants of Hokkien traders who settled here generations ago — created a dim sum culture that runs deeper than anywhere else in southern Thailand. Trang’s signature dish is moo yang (roasted pork belly), served over rice with a sweet-savory glaze that varies from shop to shop and inspires fierce loyalty among locals. The food here is cheap, authentic, and almost entirely ignored by the international travel press.

• Khao Tom Polo — Trang’s most famous dim sum institution, operating from a century-old shophouse near the clock tower since the 1940s. The carts start rolling at 5:30 AM and the best items (pork buns, shrimp shumai, taro puffs) sell out by 7:30 AM. Arrive early, grab a table, and flag down every cart that passes. Dim sum pieces run 15-25 THB ($0.40-0.70) each. A full breakfast with Chinese tea costs 80-120 THB ($2.25-3.40). Cash only. Closed Mondays.

• Sin Ocha — Another legendary dim sum shop on Ratchadamnoen Road with a slightly different selection from Khao Tom Polo. The ha gow (shrimp dumplings) are delicate and perfectly steamed, and the roast pork buns have a sweet glaze that borders on addictive. Same early-morning timing — 6 AM to 8 AM for the full selection. 80-120 THB ($2.25-3.40) for breakfast. Both Sin Ocha and Khao Tom Polo deserve a visit; locals argue passionately about which is better.

• Ko Benz Moo Yang — The pork belly spot that every taxi driver and songthaew operator will point you toward. Moo yang (roasted pork belly) is Trang’s other signature, and Ko Benz does it with a crackling exterior and melt-in-your-mouth interior served over steamed rice with a sweet soy glaze. A plate runs 50-80 THB ($1.40-2.25). The restaurant is packed at lunch; go at 11 AM to beat the rush. Near the Trang train station.

• Roti Lady at Night Market — Not a proper restaurant name, but every Trang local knows her. A Muslim woman near the train station end of the night market makes roti — thin, flaky, cooked on a flat griddle with eggs, banana, or condensed milk — that is the best street dessert I had in Thailand. Sweet roti 20-40 THB ($0.55-1.15), savory roti with curry 30-50 THB ($0.85-1.40). She sets up around 5:30 PM nightly.

• Pak Meng Seafood Restaurants — The row of open-air restaurants along Pak Meng pier serve the day’s catch grilled, steamed, or stir-fried at prices that reflect fishing village economics rather than tourist demand. Grilled whole snapper with lime and chili 150-200 THB ($4.25-5.70), stir-fried morning glory 50 THB ($1.40), tom yum with prawns 120 THB ($3.40). Eat facing the pier and watch longtail boats return from the islands as the sun drops behind the karsts. Budget 200-350 THB ($5.70-10) per person.

Where to Stay in Trang

Accommodation in Trang splits between mainland (Trang town and the coastal beaches) and island stays. Trang town has budget hotels and a few boutique options; the coast has the Anantara resort and several mid-range beach hotels; and the islands have simple bungalows and one or two upscale options on Koh Ngai. Most travelers base in Trang town for one or two nights and then move to an island.

• Anantara Si Kao Resort & Spa — The province’s sole luxury property, set on Changlang Beach with an infinity pool, spa, and rooms overlooking the Andaman. The beach is long and quiet, and the resort arranges island-hopping directly from its pier. The southern Thai seafood at the restaurant is excellent. 4,000-8,500 THB ($113-240) per night. Best for couples and families who want comfort as a base for island exploration.

• Koh Muk Charlie Beach Resort — Simple but well-maintained bungalows directly on Charlie Beach, Koh Muk’s best beach. Fan and air-con options, an on-site restaurant with decent Thai food, and a location that puts you five minutes by longtail from the Emerald Cave. 800-1,500 THB ($23-43) per night. The sweet spot between budget and comfort for an island overnight.

• Trang Hotel (Sri Trang) — A no-frills city hotel in the center of Trang town, walking distance to the dim sum shops, night market, and train station. The rooms are clean and air-conditioned with hot water — nothing fancy, everything functional. 500-900 THB ($14-25) per night. Best for one or two nights as a town base before heading to the islands.

• Koh Ngai Thanya Resort — Small resort on Koh Ngai’s east coast with wooden bungalows above the reef. Snorkeling starts at the bottom of the steps from your room. The isolation is total — no village, no roads, no other sounds beyond waves and birds. 2,500-5,000 THB ($71-142) per night including breakfast. Best for couples who want a castaway experience with a real mattress.

• Libong Beach Resort — Basic but friendly beachfront bungalows on Koh Libong’s west coast. The owners arrange dugong-spotting trips and the restaurant serves home-cooked Thai-Muslim food. 600-1,200 THB ($17-34) per night. Best for wildlife enthusiasts and travelers who want an island experience completely removed from the tourism circuit.

When Trang Stays With You

My last morning in Trang, I was back at Khao Tom Polo at 6 AM, eating pork buns and drinking Chinese tea with a tableful of Thai retirees who had been coming to this same shophouse since before I was born. The woman pushing the dim sum cart nodded at me — not a greeting, exactly, but an acknowledgment that I had shown up at the right time two days in a row, which in Trang apparently earns you a nod. Outside, the street was quiet except for a motorcycle and a cat investigating a puddle. In four hours I would be on a longtail boat watching the Emerald Cave open into light above my head. But right then, the pork buns and the tea and the quiet morning felt like the real Trang — the part that would outlast any tourism trend and that no amount of Instagram discovery could change.

Trang is not a hidden gem in the way that travel marketing uses the phrase. It is a working province with rubber plantations, fishing fleets, and a dim sum culture that exists entirely independent of foreign visitors. The islands offshore happen to be extraordinary. The fact that they remain relatively uncrowded is not a marketing strategy — it is a consequence of geography and infrastructure that will likely change as airports expand and ferry routes multiply. Go now, while the nod at the dim sum cart still means something. For nearby Andaman coast destinations, see our guides to Koh Lanta and Krabi.