Phuket

Discovering Phuket

I will admit Phuket was not high on my list the first time. The reputation for tourist traps, overcrowded beaches, and Bangla Road’s neon chaos almost kept me away entirely. I had written it off as Thailand’s Cancun — a place that had long since traded character for tour bus volume. I was wrong.

Phuket is a large island with many faces, and the mistake most travelers make is assuming Patong is the whole story. Drive 30 minutes south to Rawai and you are eating fresh seafood at a pier-side market where locals outnumber tourists ten to one. The squid comes off the boat in the morning, lands on the grill by noon, and costs less than a Bangkok taxi ride. Nobody is trying to sell you a jet ski. Nobody is handing you a laminated tour brochure. It is just a fishing village with great food and a view of the islands dotting the Andaman Sea.

Over three trips I have found Phuket’s sweet spot: use it as a base rather than a destination in itself. The Similan Islands — consistently ranked among the world’s top snorkeling sites — are reachable by day trip via Khao Lak. The old Sino-Portuguese quarter has genuine architectural character that rivals Penang’s heritage district. And the Muay Thai camp scene draws fighters from around the world for multi-week training stints at prices that would be unthinkable in the West. Tiger Muay Thai alone hosts hundreds of international visitors every month, from total beginners to professional fighters, and a day pass costs 700 THB ($20).

The beaches are undeniably beautiful when you pick the right ones. Nai Harn, Freedom Beach, and Banana Beach feel nothing like the sunbed-packed strips of Patong. Freedom Beach in particular — accessible only by longtail boat or a steep jungle trail — is the kind of white-sand, turquoise-water cove that travel magazines put on their covers. It costs 200 THB to take a longtail from Patong Beach, and within ten minutes you are somewhere that feels like a different island entirely.

What Makes Phuket Different?

Phuket is Thailand’s largest island and the Andaman coast’s main hub, connected to the mainland by the Sarasin Bridge. Its international airport means you can fly direct from dozens of Asian and European cities, skipping Bangkok entirely. That convenience, combined with world-class diving infrastructure, over 30 beaches ranging from party strips to hidden coves, and some of Thailand’s best Muay Thai training camps, makes it a versatile base for almost any type of trip. Whether you want five days of beach relaxation, a serious two-week Muay Thai training block, or a launchpad for island-hopping across the Andaman Sea, Phuket handles all of it without the ferry logistics that slow down travel to Koh Samui or Koh Lanta.

Phuket Old Town is an underrated highlight that most beach-focused visitors never see. Thalang Road’s restored Sino-Portuguese shophouses, street art murals, and independent cafes offer the cultural depth that beach areas lack entirely. The architecture dates to the tin mining boom of the 19th century when Chinese immigrants built shophouses that blend Hokkien, Malay, and European design. The Sunday Old Town Walking Street market (4-10 PM) fills Thalang Road with food stalls, live music, and craft vendors — and the food here is genuinely better than anything in the tourist beach areas. Southern Thai cuisine, with its Malay and Chinese influences, tastes different from what you find in Bangkok or Chiang Mai, and Old Town is where you experience it at its best.

The underwater world is the other factor that sets Phuket apart. The Andaman Sea side of Thailand has better visibility and more diverse marine life than the Gulf of Thailand. Day trips to the Similan Islands (November through May) offer some of the best snorkeling in Southeast Asia — manta rays, sea turtles, reef sharks, and coral gardens in 20-30 meter visibility. Closer to Phuket, Racha Yai and Racha Noi islands have reliable snorkeling and diving year-round, with day trips running 1,500-2,500 THB ($43-71). For a deeper look at Thailand’s best underwater sites, see our snorkeling guide.

Which Beaches Are Actually Worth Your Time?

The honest answer is that Phuket’s best beaches are not the famous ones. Patong Beach is wide and central but packed with sunbeds, jet skis, and vendors. It serves a purpose — proximity to restaurants, shopping, and nightlife — but it is not where you go for a beautiful beach day. The beaches worth seeking out require a little more effort.

Nai Harn Beach, on the southern tip, is the local favorite. A wide crescent of sand backed by a lagoon and low-key restaurants instead of high-rise hotels. The swimming is excellent during high season (November to April), and the crowd is a healthy mix of expats, Thai families, and travelers who did their research. The sunset from the headland above Nai Harn — a 10-minute walk up the road past the Windmill Viewpoint — is one of Phuket’s best, and you can watch it without a cocktail menu being thrust into your hand.

Freedom Beach is the trophy. Accessible only by longtail boat from Patong (200 THB, 10 minutes) or via a steep 20-minute jungle trail, this sheltered cove has powder-white sand and water so clear you can see fish from the shoreline. There is a small restaurant and nothing else. No sunbed touts, no jet skis, no Bluetooth speakers. High season only — monsoon waves make it inaccessible from June through October.

Kata Beach splits the difference between convenience and beauty. The beach is attractive, the waves are gentle enough for families, and the south end near the viewpoint is quieter than the north. Kata also has the island’s best concentration of independent restaurants and surf shops. During monsoon season, Kata gets decent surf — nothing serious, but good for beginners with board rentals at 200 THB per hour.

What to Do in Phuket

Beyond the beaches, Phuket offers more variety than most travelers expect. Here is what is genuinely worth your time and money.

Muay Thai Training — Phuket has Thailand’s highest concentration of Muay Thai camps outside Bangkok. Tiger Muay Thai in Chalong is the most famous — a massive facility with a boxing ring, MMA cage, strength gym, and two daily sessions for 700 THB ($20). Suwit Muay Thai, also in Chalong, is more budget-friendly at 400 THB ($11) per session with a family-run atmosphere. Sinbi Muay Thai in Rawai is known for producing competitive fighters and takes training seriously. Weekly packages run 5,000-10,000 THB ($140-285) at most camps. All levels welcome — complete beginners train alongside seasoned fighters.

Similan Islands Day Trip — The Similan archipelago, 84 km northwest of Phuket, offers Thailand’s best snorkeling and some of Asia’s finest diving. Day trips depart from Khao Lak (1.5 hours north of Phuket by road) and run 2,500-3,500 THB ($70-100) including hotel pickup, speedboat transfer, lunch, and 3-4 snorkel stops. Visibility regularly exceeds 25 meters and you are likely to see sea turtles, reef sharks, and massive schools of tropical fish. Open November to May only. Book at least 2-3 days ahead in peak season (December-January). For more details, see our snorkeling guide.

Phuket Old Town Walking Tour — Thalang Road and Soi Romanee form the heart of Phuket’s Sino-Portuguese heritage district. You can walk it yourself in two hours — start at the Thai Hua Museum (200 THB / $5.70) for context on the tin mining era and Chinese immigration, then weave through the shophouse streets, stopping at street art murals, independent coffee shops, and the Shrine of the Serene Light. Guided food walks run 1,500-2,200 THB ($43-63) and add southern Thai dishes you would never find on your own.

Phi Phi Islands Day Trip — The iconic limestone islands made famous by “The Beach” are a 90-minute speedboat ride from Phuket. Day trips run 1,800-3,000 THB ($51-85) and typically include Maya Bay (now reopened with visitor limits), Pileh Lagoon for swimming, and snorkeling at Bamboo Island. The crowds at Maya Bay are real but manageable with the new daily cap. For a less crowded alternative, book a sunrise or sunset trip.

Big Buddha Viewpoint — The 45-meter marble-clad Buddha atop Nakkerd Hill is visible from most of southern Phuket. The drive up takes 15 minutes from Chalong, and the panoramic views from the base stretch across Chalong Bay, Kata, and Rawai. Free entry (donations appreciated). Best visited early morning or late afternoon to avoid the midday heat. Dress modestly — sarongs are available to borrow at the entrance.

Phuket Vegetarian Festival — If you happen to visit in October (dates vary by lunar calendar), the Vegetarian Festival is one of Thailand’s most intense cultural experiences. Nine days of ceremonies centered on Phuket’s Chinese shrines, including street processions with firewalking, blade-climbing, and extreme acts of devotion. The food is the accessible entry point — every restaurant in Old Town switches to vegetarian dishes marked with yellow flags. Even if the rituals are not your thing, the food alone is worth a visit.

Promthep Cape Sunset — The southernmost point of Phuket and the island’s most popular sunset viewpoint. Arrive by 5 PM for a good spot. The lighthouse at the top has a small museum and a restaurant. Free. Combine with dinner at a Rawai seafood restaurant afterward — the market and grill places along Rawai’s waterfront are a 10-minute drive north.

Where to Eat in Phuket

Phuket’s food identity is distinct from the rest of Thailand. Southern Thai cuisine is spicier, more influenced by Malay and Hokkien Chinese flavors, and often less sweet than central Thai cooking. The island’s signature dishes — moo hong (braised pork belly), oh tao (oyster omelette), and Hokkien mi (stir-fried egg noodles) — reflect centuries of cross-cultural blending. The best food is overwhelmingly in Old Town and Rawai, not in the tourist beach areas.

• Raya Restaurant — The essential Phuket dining experience. Housed in a restored Sino-Portuguese mansion on Dibuk Road, Raya serves southern Thai cuisine that has been drawing locals and in-the-know visitors for decades. The crab curry with betel leaves (280 THB / $8) is the signature — intensely fragrant, creamy, and rich. Moo hong braised pork belly (180 THB / $5) melts apart. Stir-fried sataw beans with shrimp (160 THB / $4.50) is the southern Thai staple you need to try. Lunch and dinner. Cash preferred.

• One Chun Cafe — A no-frills shophouse restaurant on Thepkrasattri Road in Old Town serving the southern Thai comfort food that locals actually eat. Kua kling dry curry (120 THB / $3.40) is fiery minced pork with a bouquet of fresh herbs and no coconut milk to soften the heat. Yellow curry with fish (100 THB / $2.85) is milder and aromatic. Lunch only — they close by 2 PM and sometimes earlier if they sell out.

• Bang Pae Seafood — A beachside shack near Bang Pae Waterfall, north of Phuket Town. The setting is basic — plastic chairs on sand — but the grilled river prawns (300 THB / $8.50) are spectacular, charcoal-kissed and served with a spicy seafood dipping sauce. Stir-fried morning glory with garlic (60 THB / $1.70) is the perfect side. Cash only. Open lunch through early evening.

• Tu Kab Khao — An elevated take on southern Thai cuisine in a beautifully restored Old Town shophouse. The presentation is refined but the flavors are authentic. Massaman curry with slow-braised beef cheek (280 THB / $8), crispy soft-shell crab with turmeric (350 THB / $10), and a coconut ice cream with palm sugar that perfectly balances the chili heat. Dinner reservations recommended during high season. Phang Nga Road.

• Rawai Seafood Market — Not a restaurant but a market-and-grill concept along Rawai’s waterfront. Buy fresh seafood from the fishmongers at market price — tiger prawns, crab, squid, rock lobster — then take it to any of the grill restaurants behind the stalls where they cook it for 100-200 THB per kilogram cooking fee. A full seafood feast for two runs 800-1,500 THB ($23-43). The lobster here is a fraction of restaurant prices.

• Kopitiam by Wilai — A Phuket Old Town breakfast institution on Thalang Road. Dim sum from 6 AM (20-40 THB per basket), Hokkien-style coffee brewed in cloth filters (30 THB / $0.85), and roti with condensed milk (25 THB / $0.70). The morning crowd is mostly local — retirees reading newspapers over dim sum and iced Milo. This is how Phuket’s Sino-Thai community has been starting its day for generations.

For a broader look at southern Thai flavors and regional differences across the country, see our cuisine guide.

Where to Stay in Phuket

Phuket’s accommodation ranges from 300 THB dorm beds to 60,000 THB private pool villas, and where you stay determines what kind of Phuket trip you have. Patong is central and convenient but noisy. Kata and Karon are family-friendly with good beach access. Rawai and Nai Harn are quieter and more local. Old Town is best for culture and food. Here are five options across the full range.

• Lub d Phuket Patong — A modern, well-designed hostel near Bangla Road with pod-style beds that have privacy curtains, personal reading lights, USB charging, and individual air vents. The rooftop pool and bar make it social without being a party hostel. 500-800 THB ($14-23) per night. The best budget option in Patong — walking distance to the beach and nightlife without the noise of Bangla Road itself.

• The Memory at On On Hotel — Phuket Old Town’s most characterful stay. This restored Sino-Portuguese building on Phang Nga Road appeared in the Leonardo DiCaprio film “The Beach” and has been thoughtfully renovated with period details intact — wooden shutters, tile floors, vintage furniture. Rooms are simple but atmospheric. Thalang Road’s cafes and the Sunday Walking Street are steps away. 1,200-2,000 THB ($34-57) per night.

• Kata Rocks — A design-forward resort on the headland above Kata Beach with an infinity pool that seems to spill into the Andaman Sea. The one- and two-bedroom sky villas have private plunge pools, floor-to-ceiling glass walls, and kitchenettes. The on-site restaurant is genuinely good. 6,000-12,000 THB ($170-340) per night. Best for couples who want luxury without the Patong crowds.

• The Nai Harn — Beachfront overlooking Nai Harn Bay on Phuket’s southern tip. The rooftop bar, Cosmo, has arguably the best sunset cocktail view on the island. Rooms are large with balconies facing the bay. The pool is steps from the beach. Service is polished without being stiff. 4,500-8,000 THB ($128-225) per night. My top pick for an upscale stay that feels distinctly Phuket rather than generic tropical resort.

• Trisara — Ultra-luxury for travelers who want total seclusion. Private pool villas cascading down a hillside to a secluded bay north of Bang Tao. The restaurant, PRU, holds a Michelin star for its farm-to-table Thai cuisine. A personal butler, private beach, and the kind of manicured quiet that makes the rest of the world disappear. 25,000-60,000 THB ($710-1,700) per night. This is where Phuket proves it can compete with the Maldives.

Inside the Shrine of the Serene Light

The deeper you walk into Phuket Old Town, the quieter it gets. Soi Romanee — a narrow lane of pastel-colored shophouses that was once the island’s red-light district during the tin mining era — is now lined with boutique coffee shops and galleries. Halfway down the soi, behind an unmarked wooden gate, sits the Shrine of the Serene Light (Sang Tham Shrine), one of Phuket’s oldest Chinese shrines.

I found it by accident on my second visit, drawn in by the smell of incense drifting through the gate. Inside, the space opens into a courtyard shrine with red lanterns hanging from a century-old roof, gold-leafed altars, and walls darkened by decades of joss stick smoke. An elderly woman was arranging oranges on an offering plate. Two cats slept on the threshold. Through the back doorway, a sliver of sky framed the rooftops of Phang Nga Road. The contrast with the beach crowds 30 minutes south was absolute. This is the Phuket that existed before the first tourist ever arrived — a Chinese trading community with its own temples, its own food, and its own quiet rhythms. The shrine is open daily, free entry, and almost always empty. It is the single place I recommend most to anyone who thinks Phuket is just beaches and nightlife.

Day Trips from Phuket

Phuket’s position on the Andaman coast makes it a natural base for exploring nearby islands and mainland attractions.

Khao Lak (80 km north, 1.5 hours by road) — The gateway to the Similan Islands and a destination in its own right. Long, uncrowded beaches, national park jungle, and a low-key atmosphere that is the anti-Patong. Khao Lak is also the base for liveaboard dive trips to the Similans and Surin Islands. Minivans from Phuket run 250-400 THB ($7-11). See our full Khao Lak guide.

Krabi and Railay Beach (2.5-3 hours by road, or 2 hours by ferry) — Railay Beach, accessible only by longtail boat, has some of the most dramatic limestone cliff scenery in Thailand. The rock climbing is world-class, and Phra Nang Cave Beach is stunning. Ferries from Phuket’s Rassada Pier to Krabi’s Ao Nang run 350-500 THB ($10-14). See our full Krabi guide.

Koh Lanta (4 hours by road and ferry) — A quieter, more relaxed alternative to Phuket with long sandy beaches, mangrove forests, and excellent snorkeling at Koh Rok. The pace of life is noticeably slower. Minivan-and-ferry combos from Phuket run 500-700 THB ($14-20). Worth at least two nights if you want to decompress from Phuket’s energy. See our full Koh Lanta guide.

The Island That Surprised Me

I came to Phuket expecting to confirm my skepticism. I expected Patong to be everything the internet warned about, and it was — loud, commercial, aggressively touristy. What I did not expect was everything else. The Old Town that felt more like Penang than a Thai beach resort. The Muay Thai camp where a retired champion patiently taught me to throw a proper kick for 700 THB. The Rawai seafood market where I ate rock lobster grilled over charcoal for the price of a Bangkok taxi ride. The shrine on a quiet soi where the only sound was incense crackling.

Phuket is not the island I would choose for a quiet retreat — that is what Koh Lanta and Khao Lak are for. But as a base with an international airport, world-class food, legitimate cultural depth, and access to the Andaman Sea’s best underwater sites, Phuket earns its place. The travelers who dismiss it have usually only seen Bangla Road. The ones who love it are the ones who rented a scooter, drove south past Chalong, and kept going until the road ended at a pier where the squid was still twitching. That is the Phuket worth visiting. And for the finer side of the island — the Michelin-starred dining at Trisara, the design hotels, the private island day trips — see our finer things guide.