Lopburi

Discovering Lopburi

I stepped off the train in Lopburi and within thirty seconds a macaque was sitting on the station platform, staring at me with the flat, appraising confidence of an animal that knows it owns the place. It does. Lopburi is home to roughly 3,000 long-tailed macaques that have colonized the old town center so completely that traffic slows around them, shopkeepers wire their storefronts shut, and tourists clutch their bags with both hands. The monkeys swing from power lines, perch on temple spires, and sit on parked motorcycles like they are waiting for the keys. This is not a zoo. There is no fence. The monkeys were here before the roads, before the cars, before the 7-Elevens — and they behave accordingly.

But monkeys are only half the story. Lopburi was a major outpost of the Khmer Empire from the 10th to 13th centuries, and the ruins of that era still stand in the center of town — laterite towers in the same architectural tradition as Angkor Wat, now draped in tree roots and overrun by the macaques that have made them famous. Centuries later, King Narai the Great chose Lopburi as his second capital during the Ayutthaya period, building an elegant palace complex where he hosted French ambassadors from the court of Louis XIV. The layers of history here are extraordinary: Khmer ruins beneath Ayutthayan walls beneath a modern Thai city, all presided over by monkeys who treat every surface as personal property.

I came for the spectacle and stayed because the history surprised me. Lopburi is not polished, not manicured, and not on most tourist itineraries — which is precisely what makes it worth the 2.5-hour train ride from Bangkok. This is a town where the ancient and the absurd coexist on the same street corner, and where a 1,000-year-old Khmer prang serves as a jungle gym for macaques that have never heard of heritage preservation.

What Makes Lopburi Different?

Every country has its temple towns and historical parks, but no place in Southeast Asia has Lopburi’s central proposition: a living city where wild primates have taken over the downtown core and the humans have simply adapted. The monkeys are not a tourist attraction that was engineered — they are a population that grew around sacred Khmer temples where they were fed and protected by local belief, and over generations they expanded until they occupied entire city blocks. Shopkeepers in the old town install metal grilles over their doors and windows not for security against thieves but against macaques that will enter, ransack shelves, and leave with whatever they can carry. The city has tried relocation programs, sterilization campaigns, and feeding schedules, but the monkeys persist. They are Lopburi’s identity now, for better and worse, and the annual Monkey Banquet Festival every November has turned that coexistence into one of Thailand’s most distinctive cultural events.

Beneath the monkey chaos lies serious archaeology. Lopburi’s Khmer-era ruins predate Ayutthaya’s temples by several centuries and represent the western frontier of the Khmer Empire at its height. Prang Sam Yot’s three interconnected towers are classic Bayon-period Khmer architecture — contemporaries of the great temples at Angkor, built from laterite and sandstone in a style you won’t find anywhere else in central Thailand. King Narai’s Palace, built in the 17th century, blends Khmer foundations with Ayutthayan and European design, reflecting a moment when Siam was actively courting French diplomacy and Persian trade. For anyone interested in the layered history of Southeast Asia, Lopburi offers a chapter that Ayutthaya and Sukhothai do not cover.

Monkeys and Ruins — Prang Sam Yot and Beyond

Prang Sam Yot is the image that defines Lopburi: three Khmer-style towers rising from a small compound in the middle of town, every surface crawling with macaques. Built in the 13th century as a Mahayana Buddhist shrine, later converted to Theravada use, the three laterite prangs are connected by corridors and decorated with carved lintels showing Hindu mythological scenes — Vishnu, Garuda, naga serpents. The craftsmanship is genuinely impressive, though you will be distracted by the monkeys sitting on every ledge, swinging from every doorway, and approaching every visitor with brazen confidence. Keep food hidden, hold your bag tight, and enjoy the surreal collision of ancient architecture and wildlife chaos. Entry 50 THB ($1.40).

San Phra Kan sits directly across the railroad tracks from Prang Sam Yot and is the monkeys’ other stronghold. This smaller Khmer shrine houses a four-armed Vishnu image and attracts even denser monkey crowds than its famous neighbor. Locals leave food offerings at the shrine, which the macaques intercept with practiced efficiency. The area around San Phra Kan is ground zero for monkey encounters — this is where the bolder macaques will climb on visitors, investigate bags, and snatch anything shiny. Free entry.

King Narai’s Palace (Phra Narai Ratchaniwet) is Lopburi’s finest historical site and a welcome contrast to the monkey temples. Built between 1666 and 1677 by King Narai the Great, the palace complex sprawls across manicured grounds enclosed by massive laterite walls. The architecture blends Khmer structural elements with French and Persian decorative influences — pointed arches alongside traditional Thai rooflines — reflecting Narai’s cosmopolitan court. The Somdet Phra Narai National Museum inside the grounds houses Khmer sculpture, Lopburi-period artifacts, and exhibits on Narai’s diplomatic relations with Louis XIV. The palace is largely monkey-free, beautifully maintained, and provides historical context that makes the rest of Lopburi’s ruins more meaningful. Entry 150 THB ($4.30). Closed Monday.

Wat Phra Sri Rattana Mahathat stands near the train station and is often overlooked by visitors rushing toward the monkey temples. That is a mistake. Its central prang is one of the finest examples of Lopburi-period Khmer architecture in Thailand — tall, well-preserved, and decorated with intricate stucco work. The surrounding ruins include laterite walls, smaller prangs, and Buddha images in the Lopburi style that predates the more familiar Sukhothai aesthetic. Entry 50 THB ($1.40).

What to Do in Lopburi

Beyond the headline temples and monkey encounters, Lopburi has enough to fill a full day or a relaxed overnight stay.

Explore the Old Town on Foot — Lopburi’s old town is compact and walkable. The main monkey zone stretches along Phra Kan Road and the railroad tracks between Prang Sam Yot and San Phra Kan. Walking the surrounding streets reveals crumbling Khmer-era walls integrated into modern shophouses, a lively morning market, and a town center that feels genuinely lived-in rather than curated for visitors. Free.

Somdet Phra Narai National Museum — Inside King Narai’s Palace, this museum provides essential context for everything you see in Lopburi. Khmer sculpture, Dvaravati-period artifacts, ceramics from Narai’s international trade, and exhibits on the French diplomatic mission of 1685. Small but well-curated. Entry included with palace ticket (150 THB / $4.30). Closed Monday.

Sunflower Fields (November-January) — From late November through January, the agricultural land east of Lopburi explodes into vast fields of sunflowers stretching to the horizon. The scale is astonishing — thousands of hectares of yellow flowers under blue sky. Hire a tuk-tuk for 200-400 THB ($6-11) round trip for a two-hour loop through the blooming fields. Peak bloom is usually mid-December. Free to visit; timing dependent on the agricultural cycle.

Monkey Banquet Festival (Late November) — Held on the last Sunday of November, this annual event sees the city lay out an elaborate buffet of carved fruits, vegetables, and sweets for the macaques at Prang Sam Yot. Over 2,000 kg of food is arranged on tables, and roughly 3,000 monkeys descend on it in a frenzy of grabbing, stuffing, and fighting that is simultaneously hilarious and mildly terrifying. Traditional Thai dance performances and ceremonies accompany the event. Arrive before 8 AM for the best positions. Free to attend.

Khao Wong Phrachan (Day Trip) — This limestone hill 25 km west of town features several cave temples, a large reclining Buddha, and panoramic views of the central plain. A tuk-tuk or songthaew from Lopburi costs 300-500 THB ($8.50-14) round trip. Entry 20 THB ($0.60). A quiet contrast to the old town’s monkey mayhem.

Where to Eat in Lopburi

Lopburi’s food scene is local and inexpensive. Don’t expect tourist-oriented restaurants — this is a Thai town that caters to Thai appetites.

• Lopburi Night Market (Na Phra Kan Road) — The evening market near the old town sets up nightly with stalls selling pad Thai 40-50 THB ($1.15-1.40), grilled pork skewers 10-20 THB ($0.30-0.60), som tum (papaya salad) 30-40 THB ($0.85-1.15), and khao pad (fried rice) 40-50 THB ($1.15-1.40). Cheap, authentic, and best between 5:30 and 8 PM.

• Baan Wichayen Coffee & Eatery — A café near King Narai’s Palace grounds serving Thai dishes and good coffee in an air-conditioned space. Pad kra pao 60-80 THB ($1.70-2.30), khao man gai (chicken rice) 50 THB ($1.40), iced coffee 40 THB ($1.15). A comfortable lunch stop after the palace museum.

• Khrua Tha Nam (Riverside Kitchen) — Lopburi’s best sit-down restaurant, on the Pa Sak River south of the old town. River fish dishes 120-200 THB ($3.40-5.70), tom yum goong 100 THB ($2.85), green curry 80 THB ($2.30). The riverside terrace is the most pleasant dinner setting in town. Cash only.

• Morning Market (Talat Lopburi) — The daily morning market near the train station is where locals eat breakfast. Jok (rice porridge) 30 THB ($0.85), pa tong go (fried dough sticks) 10 THB ($0.30), kopi boran (traditional Thai coffee) 15 THB ($0.40). Best visited between 6:30 and 8:30 AM. The market also sells fresh produce, dried goods, and takeaway curries packed in bags.

Where to Stay in Lopburi

Most visitors see Lopburi as a day trip, and the accommodation options reflect a town that has not yet been reshaped by mass tourism. Hotels are simple and cheap.

• Noom Guesthouse — The backpacker standby near the train station with basic fan rooms and a communal area where travelers swap monkey-encounter stories. Clean, no frills, and a two-minute walk from the first ruins. 250-400 THB ($7-11) per night. The owner provides good maps and advice on navigating the monkey zones.

• The Lopburi Inn Resort — The best mid-range option in town with air-conditioned rooms, a swimming pool, and a restaurant. Located south of the old town center and outside the monkey zone, which means you can relax without worrying about macaques entering your room. Rooms are modern and well-maintained. 800-1,500 THB ($23-43) per night.

• Lopburi Residence Hotel — A newer hotel on the eastern side of town with clean rooms, strong Wi-Fi, and parking. It lacks character but delivers comfort — air conditioning, hot water, and quiet nights away from the monkey core. 600-1,000 THB ($17-29) per night. A practical choice if you are driving through or combining Lopburi with Ayutthaya.

• Sam Yot Inn — A small guesthouse in the old town within walking distance of Prang Sam Yot. The location is unbeatable for morning visits to the ruins before the day-trippers arrive. Rooms are basic but functional. Be aware that old town guesthouses occasionally have monkey visitors on balconies and rooftops. 350-600 THB ($10-17) per night.

How Do You Get to Lopburi from Bangkok?

Lopburi sits 155 km north of Bangkok and is easily reached by train, the most practical and scenic option.

By Train — Trains depart Bangkok’s Hua Lamphong station (or the newer Krung Thep Aphiwat Central Terminal for some services) several times daily. Third class (28 THB / $0.80, unreserved, fan-cooled) takes 2.5-3 hours and runs through the central plains past rice paddies and small towns. Second class (108-278 THB / $3-8, reserved seat, some air-conditioned) is available on express services. The Lopburi train station sits directly adjacent to the old town — Wat Phra Sri Rattana Mahathat is a one-minute walk and Prang Sam Yot is ten minutes on foot. Trains also connect Lopburi to Ayutthaya in about an hour (15 THB third class), making a combined two-day trip straightforward.

By Minivan — Minivans depart from Bangkok’s Mo Chit terminal and Victory Monument area. The fare is 120-150 THB ($3.40-4.30) and the ride takes 2-2.5 hours depending on traffic. Vans drop you at the Lopburi bus station, a short tuk-tuk ride from the old town.

By Car — The drive from Bangkok takes about 2 hours via Highway 1 (Phahonyothin Road). A Grab from central Bangkok costs approximately 1,500-2,000 THB ($43-57). Useful for groups splitting the fare or if you plan to visit the sunflower fields, which are difficult to reach without private transport.

When the Monkeys Are Watching

I spent my last hour in Lopburi sitting on a bench across from Prang Sam Yot, watching the macaques. A mother nursed an infant on a carved Khmer lintel that a museum in Paris would display behind glass. Two juveniles chased each other through a 13th-century doorway, leaping from stones that Khmer builders had carved with images of Vishnu a thousand years ago. A large male sat on the peak of the central prang — the highest point in the compound — and surveyed the street below with the territorial calm of something that has never been challenged.

Lopburi does not romanticize the monkey situation. The macaques damage buildings, intimidate pedestrians, and create genuine public health concerns. But they are also the reason anyone comes here, the reason the Khmer ruins are famous rather than forgotten, and the reason this small central Thai town has an identity that no marketing campaign could have invented. The monkeys turned a minor historical site into something singular — a place where human civilization and animal occupation have reached an uneasy truce, with the animals clearly winning. I took the afternoon train south, my bag still zipped tight, and found myself smiling at the memory of a city that has surrendered its downtown to macaques and somehow made it work.