Koh Samui

Discovering Koh Samui

I first visited Koh Samui expecting another Thai island with a single strip of beach bars and backpacker bungalows. Instead I found an island large enough to have distinct neighborhoods, each with its own personality. Chaweng is the commercial heart — packed with shopping malls, nightclubs, and international restaurants. Drive 20 minutes to Bophut’s Fisherman’s Village and you’re in a completely different world of quiet boutique hotels and Friday night walking streets.

What struck me most about Samui is that it works at every budget level. Yes, you can spend 25,000 THB a night at a clifftop villa with an infinity pool. But you can also find a clean fan bungalow on Maenam Beach for 600 THB and eat pad Thai for 50 THB at the night market. The island accommodates both without making either feel out of place.

The coconut palms that give the island its nickname are everywhere — Samui was a coconut plantation long before it was a resort island, and that agricultural past is still visible in the interior’s green, hilly landscape. Trained monkeys still harvest coconuts in some plantations, and the sweet smell of copra drying in the sun occasionally drifts across the coastal roads when you least expect it.

I’ve been back to Samui three times now, and each trip has revealed another layer. The first visit was all beaches and cocktails. The second time I rented a scooter and found waterfalls hidden in the jungle interior, viewpoint restaurants overlooking the entire Gulf, and fishing villages on the quiet south coast where the only tourists were lost ones. The third trip I used Samui as a base for island-hopping to Koh Phangan and Koh Tao, and realized that the Samui archipelago together might be the most complete island experience in Southeast Asia.

What Makes Koh Samui Different?

Koh Samui sits in the Gulf of Thailand, and that geography gives it a fundamentally different rhythm from the Andaman coast islands. While Phuket, Krabi, and Koh Lanta face their monsoon from May to October, Samui’s rainy season runs October to December — meaning it is an excellent alternative when the west coast shuts down. February through April brings glassy calm seas, dependable sunshine, and the best conditions for boat trips to Ang Thong Marine Park.

Size is the other differentiator. At 228 square kilometers, Samui is Thailand’s second-largest island — big enough to have a ring road, an airport, international hospitals, supermarkets, and neighborhoods that genuinely feel distinct from one another. You’re not stuck in a single village choosing between three restaurants. Samui offers the infrastructure and variety of a small city wrapped in palm-fringed beaches and jungle-covered hills. That combination of convenience and tropical beauty is why it attracts such a wide range of travelers — honeymoon couples, families with toddlers, yoga retreat groups, and retirees all find their corner of the island.

The Ang Thong Marine Park, a stunning archipelago of 42 limestone islands visible from Samui’s west coast, elevates the destination from beach holiday to genuine adventure. Sea caves, emerald lagoons, panoramic viewpoint hikes, and some of the Gulf’s best snorkeling are all accessible on a single day trip. Add the ease of hopping to Koh Phangan (30 minutes by ferry) and Koh Tao (90 minutes), and Samui becomes less a single destination than a gateway to an entire island circuit. For more on the region’s underwater offerings, see our snorkeling guide.

Which Beaches Should You Visit on Koh Samui?

Samui’s coastline is dotted with over a dozen named beaches, each with a distinct character. The beach you choose dictates the kind of trip you’ll have.

Chaweng Beach is the main event — a 7-kilometer arc of white sand on the east coast backed by the island’s densest concentration of hotels, restaurants, bars, and shopping. The water is warm, the sand is soft, and the sunbeds are endless. It’s busy but not overwhelming outside of peak holiday weeks. Chaweng Noi, the quieter southern extension, offers the same beautiful water with half the crowd and better snorkeling around the rocky headland.

Lamai Beach sits south of Chaweng and attracts a slightly older, more relaxed crowd. The beach is excellent — wide and clean with good swimming — and the restaurant scene along the beach road has matured into something genuinely good. The famous Hin Ta and Hin Yai (Grandfather and Grandmother Rocks) at the southern end are natural rock formations that locals have been joking about for centuries. Lamai also has the island’s best concentration of Muay Thai camps and wellness retreats, making it a solid pick for travelers seeking more than a sunbed.

Bophut and Fisherman’s Village on the north coast is where I’d stay if I came back tomorrow. The old Chinese-Thai shophouses along the waterfront have been converted into boutique hotels, cafes, and craft shops without losing their character. The Friday Night Walking Street (5 PM to 10 PM) is Samui’s best market — handmade jewelry, local art, and food stalls serving everything from boat noodles to crepes. The beach itself faces Koh Phangan across a narrow strait, and on clear evenings you watch the sun set behind the island’s silhouette. Maenam Beach, farther west, is the most affordable stretch — backpacker bungalows, beach bars with hammocks, and a Thai-Chinese temple at the pier. Choeng Mon, northeast of Chaweng, is quiet and upscale — a small bay with luxury resorts and water calm enough for paddleboarding year-round.

What Are the Best Things to Do on Koh Samui?

Beyond the beaches, Samui offers enough activities to fill a week without repeating yourself. Here’s what’s worth your time and money.

Ang Thong Marine Park Day Trip — The highlight of any Samui visit. A speedboat takes you to the 42-island archipelago west of Samui for a full day of kayaking through limestone sea caves, snorkeling over coral gardens, and hiking to the panoramic viewpoint above the Emerald Lake (Thale Nai) — a saltwater lake ringed by sheer cliffs that glows emerald green in the sun. Speedboat tours run 1,500-2,500 THB ($43-70) from Nathon Pier, including lunch and snorkel gear. The park is closed November to mid-December. Book through your hotel or any Chaweng tour office. For more on snorkeling in the Gulf, see our snorkeling guide.

Big Buddha Temple (Wat Phra Yai) — The 12-meter golden seated Buddha at the island’s northeast corner is Samui’s most recognizable landmark, visible from the airplane window and the ferry approach. The temple sits on a small island connected to Samui by a causeway, and the staircase up is flanked by naga serpent railings. The views from the platform encompass the north coast and Koh Phangan across the water. Free admission. Dress modestly — sarongs available to borrow at the entrance. Best photographed in morning light when the gold catches the sun.

Na Muang Waterfalls — Two waterfalls in the island’s jungle interior, reachable by scooter or songthaew. Na Muang 1 (18 meters, easy 200-meter walk from parking) has a natural pool deep enough to swim in during the wet season. Na Muang 2 (80 meters, 30-minute uphill hike) is more dramatic but the trail is steep and slippery. Free entry. Bring water shoes and mosquito repellent.

Samui Elephant Sanctuary — The island’s ethical elephant experience. No riding, no chains, no performances. Walk alongside rescued elephants, feed them bananas and sugarcane, and watch them play in a mud wallow. The half-day program (2,200-2,800 THB / $62-79) includes hotel pickup, a vegetarian lunch, and a guide who tells each elephant’s rescue story. Book at least two days ahead in high season.

Fisherman’s Village Friday Walking Street — Bophut’s weekly night market runs along the waterfront from 5 PM to 10 PM every Friday. Local crafts, handmade jewelry, coconut ice cream, grilled seafood skewers (40-80 THB / $1-2.30), and live music from the bars. The atmosphere is relaxed and family-friendly — a welcome contrast to Chaweng’s party energy.

Muay Thai Training — Lamai and Chaweng both have Muay Thai camps offering drop-in sessions for beginners. Lamai Muay Thai Camp and Jun Muay Thai Gym are well-regarded. Sessions run 800-1,200 THB ($23-34) for two hours of pad work, bag drills, and basic technique with experienced Thai trainers. No experience needed — they’ll work with your level.

Secret Buddha Garden (Magic Garden) — A quirky hillside sculpture park deep in the island’s interior, built by a local fruit farmer over decades. Stone statues of deities, monks, and mythical creatures are scattered through the jungle. Getting there requires a 4WD vehicle or a steep scooter ride — the last kilometer is unpaved and muddy in the wet season. Entrance 80 THB ($2.30). Odd but genuinely memorable.

Where to Eat on Koh Samui

Samui’s food scene spans from 40 THB noodle carts to oceanfront fine dining, and the best meals are often the ones you stumble into between the two extremes.

• Laem Din Market — Chaweng’s best night food market, operating nightly from 5 PM along the road behind Chaweng Beach. Grilled squid 80 THB ($2.30), som tum papaya salad 40 THB ($1.15), pad Thai 50-70 THB ($1.40-2), fresh coconut ice cream 50 THB ($1.40). Walk the whole strip before committing — the grilled seafood vendors in the middle section have the freshest catch.

• The Hut Cafe — Waterfront restaurant in Fisherman’s Village with tables practically on the sand. Thai fusion breakfast (eggs, smoked salmon, Thai herbs) and seafood dinners that lean European with Thai accents. Mains 180-350 THB ($5-10). The sunset view across to Koh Phangan is the real draw — arrive by 5 PM for a good table.

• Bang Po Seafood — A local institution on stilts over the water on the quiet north coast. Steamed whole fish with lime and chili 250 THB ($7), tom yum goong 150 THB ($4.25), spicy stir-fried morning glory 80 THB ($2.30). Nothing fancy — plastic tables, fluorescent lights, a Thai menu with some English — but the seafood is pulled from the water that morning. Cash only.

• Dining on the Rocks at Six Senses — If you’re going to splurge on one meal in Samui, this is where. The restaurant cascades down a rocky hillside overlooking the Gulf, each table at a slightly different elevation with its own ocean view. The nine-course tasting menu (3,500-5,000 THB / $99-142 per person) uses local ingredients with modern technique. Reservations essential. Even if you skip dinner, sunset cocktails on the lowest terrace are 350-500 THB and worth every baht.

• Ninja Crepes — A hole-in-the-wall crepe stall near Chaweng’s main intersection that has become a late-night institution. Banana-Nutella crepes, Thai tea crepes, savory ham-and-cheese crepes, all made on a battered griddle by a woman who has been doing this for 15 years. 60-120 THB ($1.70-3.40). Open evenings until midnight or later.

• Krua Bophut — A genuine local Thai restaurant in Bophut village, away from the tourist waterfront. The green curry is rich and coconut-heavy, the pad kra pao (basil stir-fry) comes with a perfect fried egg, and the khao pad (fried rice) is smoky from a well-seasoned wok. Mains 80-160 THB ($2.30-4.50). Lunch crowd is mostly Thai, which tells you everything.

For a deeper exploration of southern Thai flavors and regional differences, see our cuisine guide.

Where to Stay on Koh Samui

Samui’s accommodation market has matured significantly — you’ll find everything from backpacker dorms to some of the finest resorts in Southeast Asia, often on the same beach.

• Coco Hostel — Clean, social dorms on Chaweng Beach Road, a five-minute walk from the sand. Bunk beds with personal reading lights, USB charging, and privacy curtains. The communal kitchen and rooftop hangout area keep costs down. 400-600 THB ($11-17) per night. Best for solo backpackers and budget travelers.

• Baan Haad Ngam Boutique Resort — Our mid-range recommendation on Choeng Mon’s quiet bay. Beachfront pool, spacious rooms with balconies facing the water, and a breakfast spread that justifies the rate. The beach here is calmer and less crowded than Chaweng — ideal for couples and families. 2,500-4,000 THB ($70-113) per night.

• Hansar Samui Resort — Sleek, modern resort on Bophut Beach with floor-to-ceiling ocean views and a beachfront infinity pool. The rooms have a minimalist design that feels more Bali than typical Thai resort. Walking distance to Fisherman’s Village for dinner. 4,500-8,000 THB ($128-227) per night. The sweet spot between boutique charm and resort comfort.

• Anantara Bophut Resort — A step up in luxury without reaching Five-star pricing. The Thai-style villas are spread across garden grounds leading to a private stretch of Bophut Beach. The spa is excellent, the Thai restaurant is better than it needs to be for a resort, and the pool area feels spacious even at full occupancy. 6,000-12,000 THB ($170-340) per night.

• Four Seasons Koh Samui — Hillside villas with private plunge pools cascading down to Laem Yai Bay. This is the kind of resort where staff remember your name by day two and the sunset from the infinity pool makes you question every life choice that led you anywhere other than here. The beachfront restaurant and wellness spa are world-class. 18,000-45,000 THB ($510-1,275) per night. Worth it for a honeymoon, anniversary, or the kind of trip you tell stories about for decades.

Fisherman’s Village at Dusk

The light in Bophut changes around 5 PM. The afternoon heat lifts, the old shophouse facades lose their harsh midday shadows, and the string lights along the waterfront start to glow. On Fridays, the Walking Street vendors are setting up their stalls — trays of handmade silver jewelry, stacks of coconut shell bowls, racks of Thai silk scarves — and the food carts are firing their charcoal grills for the evening rush.

I walked the length of the waterfront on my last visit as the sun was dropping toward Koh Phangan’s silhouette across the strait. The old Chinese-Thai shophouses that line the narrow lane were built by fishermen and traders a century ago, and some still have the original wooden shutters and tiled floors visible through open doorways that are now boutique hotel lobbies and cocktail bars. A longtail boat puttered into the small harbor and an old man unloaded his catch — squid and small fish in blue plastic baskets — while tourists browsed jewelry stalls ten meters away. That overlap between the working village and the tourist destination is what gives Bophut its charm. It hasn’t been curated. The fishing boats are still there because fishermen still live there.

The Big Buddha temple across the bay caught the last gold light and glowed against the darkening sky. Kids were splashing in the shallows. The smell of charcoal-grilled satay mixed with salt air. I ordered a coconut ice cream from a cart (50 THB) and sat on the seawall watching the strait turn from blue to orange to black. Of all the postcard moments Samui offers, this quiet, unscripted one is the one I remember most clearly.

Where Can You Go from Koh Samui?

Samui’s location in the Gulf makes it the natural launch point for the Samui archipelago — three islands, each with a completely different personality.

Koh Phangan (30 minutes by ferry, 300-600 THB / $8-17) — Famous for the Full Moon Party, but there is far more to Phangan than one night of neon paint and bucket drinks. The northern and eastern beaches — Bottle Beach, Thong Nai Pan, Haad Salad — are some of the most beautiful and least crowded in the Gulf. The island has a thriving yoga and wellness scene centered around Sri Thanu and Haad Rin. Day trips from Samui are easy, but an overnight stay reveals Phangan’s quieter soul. See our full Koh Phangan guide.

Koh Tao (1.5-2 hours by ferry, 600-900 THB / $17-25) — The diving capital of Southeast Asia. More PADI certifications are issued here than almost anywhere else on earth, and the combination of warm water, gentle currents, and affordable course prices (9,000-12,000 THB / $255-340 for Open Water) makes it the ideal place to learn. Even non-divers enjoy the snorkeling at Japanese Garden and Shark Bay, and the viewpoints on the island’s western hills rival anything in the Gulf. A two-night stay is the minimum to appreciate what Koh Tao offers. See our full Koh Tao guide.

Koh Nang Yuan (accessible from Koh Tao, 10 minutes by longtail) — Three tiny islands connected by a sandbar that has become one of Thailand’s most iconic images. The snorkeling is excellent and the viewpoint hike takes 20 minutes. Entry fee 100 THB ($2.85). No plastic bottles allowed — you buy a reusable one at the pier. Best done as a day trip from Koh Tao.

When Koh Samui Surprises You

I thought I had Samui figured out after my first visit. Beach resort island, good food, beautiful water, predictable. Then on my second trip I rented a scooter and drove the interior roads — the ones that climb into the island’s green, hilly center where coconut plantations give way to rubber tree groves and the sound of the coast disappears entirely. I found a viewpoint restaurant at the top of a hill where a Thai grandmother served me the best pad kra pao of my life for 70 THB while her grandchildren did homework on the next table. No English menu, no TripAdvisor sticker on the door, no other tourists.

That’s the Samui that keeps pulling me back. The beaches are beautiful and the resorts are excellent, but the island has a life beyond tourism that most visitors never see. The fishing boats at Thong Krut pier, the coconut oil press in the village behind Maenam, the muay Thai gym in Lamai where local teenagers train alongside travelers — these are the things that separate a good beach holiday from a place that stays with you. Samui is big enough to have secrets and generous enough to share them if you leave the beach road and go looking.