Koh Phangan

Discovering Koh Phangan

I arrived on Koh Phangan the day after a Full Moon Party, which turned out to be the best possible timing. Haad Rin was still being swept clean of neon paint and broken buckets, while the rest of the island — the vast, quiet majority of it — went about its business as if 30,000 people had not just danced on a beach all night. The songthaew driver from the pier shrugged when I asked about the party. “Haad Rin does Haad Rin,” he said. “We live over here.”

That contrast defines Koh Phangan more than any single attraction. The southeast corner is the party zone: Haad Rin’s bars, guesthouses, tattoo parlors, and bucket vendors cluster along two adjacent beaches and a narrow strip of road between them. But travel 20 minutes north by scooter and the roads narrow into single-lane jungle tracks that lead to coves without names on any tourist map. Bottle Beach is only reachable by longtail boat or a sweaty jungle hike. Thong Nai Pan has two perfect crescent bays with zero nightclubs. Srithanu village on the west coast has become a genuine yoga and wellness community where people come for two-week detox retreats and end up staying for months, eating raw food and teaching sunrise vinyasa to newcomers.

I spent time on both sides of the island and found that Koh Phangan is really two destinations sharing one landmass. There is the Phangan that shows up in backpacker Instagram stories — fire dancers, neon body paint, buckets of cheap whiskey and Red Bull consumed barefoot on Haad Rin’s sand. And there is the Phangan that yoga teachers, digital nomads, and long-stay travelers have quietly built on the northern and western coasts — a place of coconut groves, empty beaches, meditation centers, and Thai restaurants that serve the same dishes your grandmother’s kitchen smelled like, assuming your grandmother was Thai.

Both versions are real. Both are worth experiencing. But if you only have three or four days, I would split the time unevenly — one night for the party if the moon cooperates, and the rest exploring the island that exists when the bass stops thumping. The Full Moon Party will always be there on the next lunar cycle. Bottle Beach at sunrise with nobody else on the sand is harder to schedule and more difficult to forget.

What Makes Koh Phangan Different?

Koh Phangan occupies a niche that no other Thai island has managed to replicate: party capital and wellness retreat, separated by a 20-minute scooter ride on jungle roads. The Full Moon Party draws 10,000-30,000 people to Haad Rin every month, making it one of the world’s most famous recurring events — an open-air rave on a tropical beach that has been running since the late 1980s. Half Moon and Black Moon parties fill the calendar gaps, ensuring that on any given week, somewhere on the island, somebody is dancing in fluorescent paint until sunrise.

But the island’s other identity has grown equally strong. Srithanu village on the west coast is home to more than a dozen yoga studios, detox centers, and holistic healing practitioners. Drop-in yoga classes run 300-500 THB ($8.50-14), teacher training courses cost a fraction of Western prices, and the village has its own ecosystem of vegan cafes, crystal shops, and co-working spaces that cater to the wellness-and-remote-work crowd. I met a French woman who came for a two-week detox and was still there four months later, teaching breathwork and paying rent of 8,000 THB ($227) a month for a jungle bungalow with a kitchen. “I tried to leave,” she said. “But then I did another sunrise class and here I am.” Koh Phangan collects people like that — travelers who arrived with a return ticket and let it expire. For more on the island’s wellness offerings and where they fit into Thailand’s broader scene, see our wellness guide.

The geography helps explain the duality. At 125 square kilometers, Koh Phangan is big enough to feel diverse but small enough that nothing is more than an hour’s drive away. The interior is almost entirely jungle-covered hills — steep, roadless, and largely unexplored by tourists. The coastline is scalloped with over 30 beaches, many of them accessible only by boat or trail. The party stays at Haad Rin because the infrastructure is there. The quiet stays everywhere else because the infrastructure isn’t, and the people who seek it out prefer it that way. This split personality is Koh Phangan’s defining feature and its greatest asset.

Which Beaches Should You Visit on Koh Phangan?

The beach you choose on Koh Phangan determines whether you’re sleeping at 9 PM or still dancing at 6 AM. The island’s coastline is remarkably varied for its size, and the difference between the party beaches and the remote northern coves is not just a matter of noise — it’s a different trip entirely.

Haad Rin is the epicenter. The southeast peninsula has two beaches back to back — Haad Rin Nok (Sunrise Beach) on the east side hosts the Full Moon Party and is the busier of the two, a crescent of pale sand lined with bars, guesthouses, and shops selling neon paint and bucket-drink supplies. Haad Rin Nai (Sunset Beach) on the west side is noticeably calmer and better for swimming during the day. Outside of party nights, Haad Rin is a perfectly pleasant if slightly worn-down beach village with reasonable food and accommodation. On Full Moon nights, it transforms into controlled chaos — 15,000 people on a 700-meter beach, fire dancers spinning between stages pumping different genres, fluorescent paint stalls every ten meters. I went once. The spectacle is genuinely worth experiencing even if you aren’t 22 anymore.

Bottle Beach (Haad Khuat) is the island’s crown jewel — a 200-meter arc of white sand on the north coast, accessible only by longtail boat from Chaloklum (100-150 THB, 10 minutes) or a steep jungle trail (30-45 minutes from Chaloklum). The isolation is the entire point. A handful of basic bungalow operations line the beach, the water is clear and calm in dry season, and the loudest sound is the generator that powers the beachfront restaurants in the evening. I spent a full day here and saw maybe 30 other people. Bring snorkel gear — the rocky points at either end of the beach have decent coral.

Thong Nai Pan — two adjacent bays (Noi and Yai) on the northeast coast connected by a short headland walk. Thong Nai Pan Noi is the more developed of the two, home to the Santhiya resort and several mid-range guesthouses, with a beautiful beach that stays swimmable year-round. Thong Nai Pan Yai is wider, less developed, and popular with families and couples seeking quiet. The road in from the main ring road is steep and winding — manageable on a scooter but white-knuckle for first-timers. Both bays feel like a completely different island from Haad Rin.

Haad Salad on the northwest coast is a small, sheltered bay with good snorkeling around the coral reef that protects the beach from currents. A few resorts and beachfront restaurants give it a gentle buzz without any party atmosphere. The snorkeling here is some of the island’s most accessible — walk into the water with a mask and you’re over live coral within 30 meters. For more on the island’s underwater spots, see our snorkeling guide.

Haad Yao (Long Beach) on the west coast offers a long stretch of sand with sunset views, several beach bars that walk the line between chill and lively, and some of the island’s most affordable beachfront accommodation. The water is shallow and warm. This is the compromise beach — social enough to meet people, quiet enough to hear yourself think.

What Are the Best Things to Do on Koh Phangan?

Koh Phangan has more to offer than its famous party, though the party itself is worth experiencing at least once. Here is what’s worth your time and money.

Full Moon Party — The event that put Koh Phangan on the map. Every full moon (check dates online — they shift monthly), Haad Rin Nok transforms into an open-air beach rave with multiple sound stages, fire dancers, neon body paint, and thousands of people from every country. Entry is free. Drinks are the cost — buckets of Thai whiskey, Red Bull, and Coke run 200-300 THB ($5.70-8.50), beers 100-150 THB ($2.85-4.25). Arrive by 10 PM, wear shoes you don’t mind losing, carry a waterproof pouch for phone and cash, and leave valuables at your hotel. The party runs until sunrise. Songthaews back to Thong Sala and other beaches cost 200-300 THB after midnight. Half Moon and Black Moon parties offer smaller, more music-focused alternatives on the off-moon weekends.

Yoga and Wellness Retreats — Srithanu village is the island’s spiritual center, with over a dozen studios offering everything from drop-in vinyasa (300-500 THB / $8.50-14 per class) to month-long teacher training certifications (40,000-80,000 THB / $1,130-2,270). The Yoga Retreat is the most established studio with daily scheduled classes. Wonderland Healing Center combines yoga with fasting and detox programs in a jungle setting. Orion Healing Centre on the beach at Srithanu offers residential packages with meals included. Even if you’ve never done yoga, a single sunrise class on a wooden platform overlooking the Gulf is a worthwhile experience. For a broader look at wellness options across the country, see our wellness guide.

Snorkeling at Sail Rock and Haad Salad — Sail Rock (Hin Bai) is a pinnacle rising from the deep water between Koh Phangan and Koh Tao, considered one of the Gulf’s best dive and snorkel sites. Day trip boats from Chaloklum or Thong Sala cost 1,500-2,500 THB ($43-70) and often include a second stop at Koh Ma or Haad Salad reef. Whale sharks are spotted at Sail Rock between March and June. Closer to shore, Haad Salad’s house reef has healthy coral accessible directly from the beach, and Mae Haad beach connects to Koh Ma (a small island) via a sandbar you can wade across at low tide — the snorkeling around Koh Ma’s rocky edges is excellent. See our snorkeling guide for how Koh Phangan fits into the Gulf’s underwater offerings.

Than Sadet Waterfall — The island’s most famous waterfall, located in Than Sadet National Park on the east coast. A series of cascades tumble through boulders carved with royal insignia — King Rama V and several of his successors visited this waterfall between 1888 and 1962, and their initials are carved into the granite. The main falls are a 10-minute walk from the park entrance (100 THB / $2.85 admission). Swimming is possible in the pools during the wet season. Bring mosquito repellent and sturdy shoes.

Domesila and Phaeng Viewpoints — Koh Phangan’s hilltop viewpoints offer panoramic vistas of the island and the Gulf. The Domesila viewpoint on the southern ridge requires a steep scooter ride and a short walk, rewarding you with a 360-degree view of the entire island, Koh Samui to the southwest, and Ang Thong Marine Park on the horizon. Phaeng Waterfall viewpoint is easier to access — a 20-minute hike from the national park entrance on the west side (100 THB) leads to a platform overlooking the jungle canopy all the way to the coast. Best in the early morning before the haze builds.

Thong Sala Night Market — The island’s culinary hub operates nightly from 5 PM along the main road in Thong Sala town. Pad Thai 50 THB ($1.40), grilled pork skewers 30 THB ($0.85), khao man gai (chicken rice) 40 THB ($1.15), mango sticky rice 60 THB ($1.70), and smoothie bowls 80-120 THB ($2.30-3.40). Walk the entire strip before committing — vendors rotate, and the best stalls change. The night market is the one place where the party crowd and the yoga crowd overlap, and people-watching here is half the entertainment.

Koh Ma Snorkeling and Sandbar Walk — A tiny island connected to the northwest tip of Koh Phangan by a sandbar that appears at low tide. Wade across (knee-deep water), then snorkel around Koh Ma’s rocky perimeter for some of the healthiest coral on the island. Free access. Bring your own mask and fins, or rent from the nearby beach resort for 150-200 THB. Best at low tide when the sandbar is walkable and visibility peaks.

Where to Eat on Koh Phangan

Koh Phangan’s food scene runs from 40 THB street noodles to beachfront restaurants with wine lists, and some of the most interesting eating happens in the spaces between.

• Thong Sala Night Market — The island’s essential eating experience, operating nightly from 5 PM. Stall after stall of Thai classics: pad Thai 50 THB ($1.40), grilled pork on sticks 30 THB ($0.85), som tum papaya salad 40 THB ($1.15), khao man gai 40 THB ($1.15), mango sticky rice 60 THB ($1.70), and coconut ice cream 40 THB ($1.15). Budget for 100-200 THB ($2.85-5.70) and you’ll leave stuffed. The atmosphere is lively and local — sit at a shared table and eat.

• Cookies Salad — The unofficial headquarters of the Srithanu yoga community. Smoothie bowls 180 THB ($5), Thai green curry 120 THB ($3.40), raw vegan wraps 150 THB ($4.25), and fresh juices that taste like liquefied virtue. The menu balances healthy Western options and genuine Thai cooking, and it’s a good restaurant regardless of whether you spent the morning in downward dog. Open breakfast through dinner, cash and cards.

• Nira’s Home Bakery — Tucked behind Thong Nai Pan Noi beach, this family-run spot bakes actual bread — a rarity on Thai islands — and serves it alongside strong coffee, Thai-style breakfasts, and Western egg dishes. Mains 80-200 THB ($2.30-5.70). The terrace overlooks the bay, and the pace here matches the neighborhood: slow, deliberate, and pleasant.

• Fisherman’s Restaurant — Chaloklum village, right on the fishing pier. The catch comes off the boats in the morning and onto your plate by evening. Steamed whole fish with lime and chili 200-300 THB ($5.70-8.50), tom yum goong 150 THB ($4.25), stir-fried squid with basil 120 THB ($3.40). Plastic chairs, no atmosphere beyond the water lapping at the pier stilts and the fishing boats rocking in their moorings. Cash only. The kind of restaurant you find in every Thai coastal village and wish every tourist town would copy.

• Amsterdam Bar — On Haad Rin Nai (Sunset Beach), this Dutch-Thai spot serves surprisingly good burgers (200-280 THB / $5.70-8), Thai curries (120-180 THB / $3.40-5), and cold Chang on draft. The draw is the sunset view from the terrace — Haad Rin Nai faces west, and on clear evenings the sky turns pink and gold while the east side gears up for another party night. A good dinner spot before walking over to the Full Moon chaos on the other side of the peninsula.

• Phantip Food Market — A local market near Thong Sala pier, more Thai-local than the night market. Khao pad (fried rice) 40 THB ($1.15), pad see ew 50 THB ($1.40), grilled chicken over rice 45 THB ($1.30). The stalls here cater to the Thai residents and ferry workers, not tourists, and the prices and portion sizes reflect that. Open daytime and early evening. No English menus — point and smile.

For a broader look at Thai regional flavors and where to find them, see our cuisine guide.

Where to Stay on Koh Phangan

Koh Phangan’s accommodation ranges from 300 THB hammock shacks to luxury teak villas, and the beach you choose matters more than the hotel brand. Here are five options across the full budget spectrum.

• Phangan Bayshore Resort — Budget bungalows on Haad Rin beach with a pool, the only sensible base if your primary mission is the Full Moon Party. Clean rooms with air conditioning, a two-minute walk to the party beach, and a pool to recover beside the next morning. 600-1,200 THB ($17-34) per night. Book at least three weeks ahead for Full Moon dates — the entire southeast peninsula sells out.

• Haad Salad Resort — Mid-range beachfront on the northwest coast, directly on one of the island’s best snorkeling beaches. The bungalows are basic but clean with sea views, and the restaurant serves decent Thai food with your feet in the sand. The reef is literally steps from your room. 1,200-2,500 THB ($34-70) per night. Good for couples and snorkelers who want to avoid the party scene entirely.

• Baan Tai Buri Resort — Quiet mid-range option on the south coast between Thong Sala and Haad Rin, close enough to the night market for evening food runs but insulated from party noise. Pool, garden bungalows, and a laid-back atmosphere that doesn’t try to be more than it is. 1,500-2,500 THB ($43-70) per night. Our recommendation for travelers who want a central base without the Haad Rin circus.

• Panviman Resort — Upper mid-range hillside retreat on Thong Nai Pan Noi with infinity pool, spa, and beachfront restaurant. The views from the higher bungalows sweep across the bay and out to the Gulf. 3,500-7,000 THB ($99-198) per night. The sweet spot between boutique charm and resort comfort, on a beach that feels miles from the backpacker trail.

• Santhiya Koh Phangan Resort & Spa — The island’s luxury benchmark. Teak villas built into a jungle hillside above a private section of Thong Nai Pan Noi beach. Infinity pool overlooking the Gulf, a spa that smells like lemongrass, a restaurant that serves Thai cuisine worthy of a Bangkok fine-dining room, and a quietness that makes you forget 30,000 people were dancing in neon paint 15 kilometers away last night. 6,000-15,000 THB ($170-425) per night. Worth it for a honeymoon, a milestone celebration, or the kind of trip where you want the island’s beauty matched by the room you sleep in.

The Temple Above Chaloklum

Wat Kow Tahm sits on a hill above Chaloklum village on the north coast, and most tourists drive past the turnoff without noticing it. The temple runs silent meditation retreats — 10 days of no talking, no phones, no eye contact — that attract a steady stream of travelers seeking something deeper than a beach holiday. Even if a 10-day vow of silence is not on your itinerary, the temple grounds are worth the short hike up from the main road.

I walked up late one afternoon when the monks were chanting. The sound carried down through the trees — a low, rhythmic murmur that blended with the cicadas and the distant hum of longtail boats heading back to Chaloklum with the day’s catch. The temple courtyard is simple: a meditation hall with an open front facing the Gulf, a garden of frangipani trees, and a view that stretches from the fishing boats below to Koh Tao’s blue outline on the horizon. Two women in white meditation clothes walked slowly along a path between the trees, eyes down, moving with a deliberateness that made my own pace feel frantic by comparison.

The wat is free to visit — donations welcome. Remove shoes before entering the meditation hall, dress modestly (sarongs available). The juxtaposition between this hilltop silence and the Full Moon Party happening 25 kilometers to the south is the most Koh Phangan thing imaginable. Both are genuine. Both draw people from around the world. The island holds space for both without contradiction.

Where Can You Go from Koh Phangan?

Koh Phangan sits in the middle of the Samui archipelago, making it the natural pivot point for island-hopping in the Gulf of Thailand.

Koh Samui (30 minutes by ferry, 300-600 THB / $8-17) — The big sister island to the southwest. Samui has the airport, the international hospitals, the luxury resorts, and the ring road infrastructure that Koh Phangan lacks. Chaweng Beach is the commercial heart, Bophut’s Fisherman’s Village has the charm, and the Ang Thong Marine Park day trips depart from Nathon Pier. Samui works as a day trip if you need a shopping run or a restaurant meal that involves a wine list, but a two-night stay reveals the island’s quieter neighborhoods and jungle interior. See our full Koh Samui guide.

Koh Tao (1-1.5 hours by ferry, 400-600 THB / $11-17) — The diving capital of Southeast Asia, 70 kilometers to the north. If you want a PADI Open Water certification at a fraction of Western prices (9,800-12,000 THB / $280-340), this is the place. Even without diving, the snorkeling at Shark Bay and Japanese Garden is some of the best in the Gulf, and the viewpoint hikes offer panoramic ocean views. Koh Tao is smaller and quieter than Koh Phangan — a welcome shift if you’ve been partying. Two nights minimum. See our full Koh Tao guide.

Ang Thong Marine Park (full-day tour, 1,500-2,200 THB / $43-62) — An archipelago of 42 limestone islands visible from Koh Phangan’s west coast. Day trips from Thong Sala pier include speedboat transfers, kayaking through sea caves, snorkeling, and the signature hike to the viewpoint above the Emerald Lake — a saltwater lagoon ringed by vertical cliffs that glows green in the afternoon sun. The panorama from the top, with dozens of jungle-covered islands rising from blue-green water, is one of the most photographed scenes in the Gulf. The park is closed November to mid-December. Book through your hotel or any tour office in Thong Sala.

When the Moon Isn’t Full

I stayed on Koh Phangan for nine days on my last visit, and the Full Moon Party fell on night three. The remaining six nights were the ones I think about. I rented a scooter and rode the hill roads to viewpoints where the entire Gulf stretched out below — Koh Samui to the southwest, Koh Tao a blue smudge to the north, the Ang Thong islands rising from the water like the spine of a submerged dragon. I swam alone at Bottle Beach on a Tuesday morning when the only other people were two Thai fishermen pulling in a net from a longtail. I ate pad Thai at the night market for 50 THB, sat on a stump outside the 7-Eleven, and watched the island go about its evening.

Koh Phangan’s reputation will always center on the Full Moon Party, and that’s fine — it’s earned it. The party is a genuine, unrepeatable spectacle, and experiencing it once should be on the list. But the island I keep returning to in my memory is the one between the parties: the early morning light on Thong Nai Pan, the motorbike ride through jungle roads that smell like wet earth after rain, the monk chanting at Wat Kow Tahm, the fisherman selling squid from a styrofoam cooler on Chaloklum pier. That island doesn’t need the moon to be full. It doesn’t need anything at all.