Khao Lak

Discovering Khao Lak

I chose Khao Lak over Phuket for one reason: the Similan Islands. Every diver I had talked to said the same thing — skip Phuket, base in Khao Lak, get on the boat early. They were right. Tab Lamu Pier is an hour south of town, and by 8 AM I was anchored over a reef that looked like a nature documentary set. Visibility exceeded 30 meters. Manta rays glided below. The coral was alive — not bleached, not broken, not overrun by snorkelers kicking at it with rented fins. The Similans earn their reputation as Thailand’s finest underwater landscape, and Khao Lak is the only sensible base from which to reach them.

But Khao Lak surprised me in ways I did not expect. The town itself is quiet in a way that feels deliberate rather than neglected. A long stretch of beachfront road connects a series of small communities — Nang Thong, Bang Niang, Khuk Khak — linked by Thai restaurants, dive shops, and low-rise hotels that never exceed the tree line. No clubs. No walking streets. No neon signs advertising ping pong shows. After three days in Patong’s sensory assault, the silence of a Khao Lak evening felt like arriving in a different country rather than a town 80 kilometers up the coast. I sat on the beach our first night and heard nothing but waves and a distant karaoke machine in some back-road restaurant. I cannot overstate how rare that is on the Andaman coast during high season.

The 2004 tsunami changed Khao Lak permanently. This stretch of coast was one of the hardest hit in Thailand — over 4,000 people died in Phang Nga Province, and entire resorts were wiped from their foundations. Walking the International Tsunami Museum (free entry, donations encouraged) and standing beside the police patrol boat that the wave carried two kilometers inland is the most powerful memorial experience I have had anywhere in Southeast Asia. The boat sits in a clearing surrounded by memorial plaques from dozens of countries, and it stopped me in my tracks. Khao Lak rebuilt itself with a quiet determination, and the community’s resilience is woven into the character of the town. You feel it in the way locals talk about the area — with pride, with memory, and without self-pity.

What makes this place work as a destination rather than just a diving waypoint is the combination of beach, jungle, and underwater worlds within a tight radius. The Similan Islands are an hour by speedboat. Khao Sok National Park, one of the world’s oldest rainforests, is 90 minutes northeast by road. The beaches are wide, the sand is golden-brown, and most evenings I had my section entirely to myself. For travelers who want the Andaman Sea’s best snorkeling and diving without the tourist infrastructure that has swallowed Phuket, Khao Lak is the answer.

What Makes Khao Lak Different?

Khao Lak’s identity rests on three pillars that no other Andaman coast destination combines this effectively. First, it is the undisputed gateway to the Similan Islands — nine granite islands with some of the highest-rated dive sites in the world. Tab Lamu Pier, where every Similan speedboat and liveaboard departs, is a short drive south of town. From Phuket, the same pier requires an additional 90-minute road transfer each way, which means Phuket-based travelers spend three extra hours in a minivan on their Similan day. Khao Lak eliminates that problem entirely. The town’s dive shops — Sea Dragon, Wicked Diving, Khao Lak Explorer — are Similan specialists with years of route knowledge, smaller group sizes, and boats built for the crossing. Serious divers do not debate this point. They book Khao Lak.

Second, Khao Lak is the family-friendly beach alternative that the Andaman coast needed. Phuket has world-class beaches but also nightlife districts, aggressive tuk-tuk drivers, and tourist density that can overwhelm families with young children. Krabi has Railay but requires boat transfers for its best features. Khao Lak offers long, gentle, uncrowded beaches where children can play in the shallows while parents can actually see them. The resorts here — particularly the JW Marriott and La Flora — are designed around families rather than treating them as an afterthought. The JW Marriott even operates an on-site turtle conservation program where guests can observe baby turtle releases during nesting season. There is no nightlife to navigate around, no red-light district to explain, and no beach vendors hassling you every four minutes. For families, this simplicity is the luxury.

Third, the national park access is unmatched. Khao Sok National Park, 90 minutes northeast, contains some of the oldest evergreen rainforest on Earth — predating the Amazon by millions of years. Cheow Lan Lake, the reservoir at Khao Sok’s heart, is surrounded by limestone karsts and jungle so dense that hornbills and gibbons are commonplace rather than rare sightings. Closer to town, Khao Lak-Lam Ru National Park stretches along the coast with hiking trails through lowland jungle to secluded beaches and a sea stack viewpoint that is one of the most photographed spots in Phang Nga Province. Between the Similans below the waterline, Khao Sok above it, and the coastal parks connecting the two, Khao Lak sits at the center of more protected natural landscape than any other resort town in southern Thailand.

Which Beaches Are Worth Your Time?

Khao Lak is not one beach but a series of them, strung along 20 kilometers of coastline and separated by rocky headlands and river mouths. The names blend together at first — Nang Thong, Bang Niang, Khuk Khak, Pakarang — but each has a distinct character.

Nang Thong Beach is the main tourist stretch and where most hotels, restaurants, and dive shops cluster. The sand is golden-brown, the water is warm and calm during high season, and the beach is wide enough that even at peak occupancy you can find space. The southern end near the Merlin Resort is quieter. The northern end connects to the town’s restaurant strip. For a first-time visitor, Nang Thong is the logical base — everything is walkable, the sunset views are excellent, and the swimming is safe from November through April.

Bang Niang Beach, five minutes north by scooter, is broader and less developed. The Bang Niang Sunday Market (every Sunday and Wednesday evening) is one of the better night markets on the Andaman coast — local food stalls, handmade souvenirs, and live music without the tourist-trap pricing of Patong’s markets. The beach itself has a wilder feel, with casuarina trees backing the sand and fewer sunbed operations.

Pakarang Cape (Coral Cape) is the scenic highlight. A rocky headland between Bang Niang and Khuk Khak, the cape has a short walking trail through coastal scrub to a viewpoint overlooking the Andaman Sea. At low tide, rock pools full of small fish and crabs are exposed. It is a peaceful hour’s walk and the kind of spot where you sit on a rock and lose track of time watching the water change color.

The Similan Islands themselves offer beaches of an entirely different caliber. The white sand on Koh Miang (Island 4) and Koh Similan (Island 8) is powder-fine and the water is transparent turquoise — the cliche postcards do not do it justice. Donald Duck Bay on Koh Similan, named for a boulder formation that vaguely resembles the cartoon duck, has a viewpoint trail that climbs to a panorama of the archipelago. These beaches are day-trip destinations, not places to stay overnight (unless you book the limited national park accommodation on Koh Miang), but they are among the finest sand-and-water combinations I have encountered in Southeast Asia. For a broader look at the region’s underwater offerings, see our snorkeling guide.

What to Do in Khao Lak

Khao Lak’s activities split cleanly between water and land, and the quality on both sides is high enough to fill a week without repetition.

Similan Islands Snorkeling Day Trip — The headline experience. Speedboats depart Tab Lamu Pier around 8 AM and return by 5 PM. A typical day trip includes 3-4 snorkel stops across different islands, lunch on Koh Miang’s beach, and time at the Koh Similan viewpoint. Visibility regularly exceeds 25 meters. Sea turtles, blacktip reef sharks, parrotfish the size of dogs, and coral gardens that justify every superlative written about the Similans. Day trips run 2,200-3,500 THB ($63-100) per person including hotel pickup, equipment, lunch, and national park fees. Book 2-3 days ahead during peak season (December-February). The water is calmest in February and March.

Similan Liveaboard Diving — For serious divers, the liveaboard is the definitive Similan experience. Two- to four-night trips start at 15,000 THB ($425) and include 8-14 dives across the archipelago plus the Surin Islands and Richelieu Rock — widely considered the best dive site in Thailand. Richelieu Rock’s horseshoe-shaped pinnacle attracts whale sharks between February and April. Sea Dragon Dive Center and Wicked Diving are the most established operators, with well-maintained boats and experienced dive masters. This is the trip that puts Khao Lak on the global diving map.

Khao Sok National Park Day Trip — The jungle counterweight to all the ocean time. Day trips (1,500-3,000 THB / $43-85 per person) typically include a longtail boat ride on Cheow Lan Lake, a jungle hike, canoeing through limestone corridors, and lunch at a floating restaurant. The lake is jade-green, the karsts rise vertically from the water, and the rainforest canopy is so thick that sunlight filters through like a cathedral ceiling. For the full experience, book an overnight on a floating raft house (2,500-4,500 THB / $71-128 per person including all meals). Waking up on the lake at dawn, with mist hanging over the water and gibbons calling from the karsts, is one of the most memorable mornings I have had in Thailand.

PADI Certification and Dive Courses — Khao Lak’s dive shops offer PADI Open Water certification from 12,000-15,000 THB ($340-425) for a 3-4 day course. The advantage of certifying here is that your training dives take place on Similan reefs rather than in a murky bay, so your first real underwater experience is already world-class. Advanced Open Water, Rescue Diver, and specialty courses are also available. Sea Dragon Dive Center runs courses in multiple languages with a strong safety record.

Turtle Conservation at JW Marriott — The JW Marriott Khao Lak partners with the Mai Khao Marine Turtle Foundation to protect sea turtle nesting sites along the coast. Guests and non-guests can visit the resort’s turtle nursery, learn about conservation efforts, and during nesting season (November-February), witness baby turtle releases at sunset. No charge for viewing the nursery — donations are encouraged and go directly to the program. It is a genuinely meaningful encounter rather than a tourist show.

Waterfall Hikes — Khao Lak-Lam Ru National Park (entrance 200 THB / $5.70) has several accessible trails. Ton Chong Fa Waterfall is the most popular — a moderate 30-minute hike through lowland jungle to a multi-tiered cascade with a swimming pool at the base. The trail is well-marked and shaded. Sai Rung Waterfall (Rainbow Waterfall) is smaller but quieter and less visited. Both are best during and just after monsoon season (June-November) when water flow is highest, though Ton Chong Fa runs year-round.

Surin Islands Day Trip — The Surin Islands, north of the Similans, are home to the Moken (sea gypsy) community and offer snorkeling that rivals the Similans with shallower, more accessible reef systems. Day trips run 2,500-3,500 THB ($71-100) and include a visit to the Moken village, where the semi-nomadic community has lived for centuries. The cultural dimension adds something that pure snorkeling trips cannot match. Open November to May.

Where to Eat in Khao Lak

Khao Lak’s restaurant scene is modest compared to Phuket or Krabi, but what exists is honest, affordable, and genuinely good. Southern Thai flavors dominate — spicier, more turmeric-forward, and heavier on seafood than the central Thai cooking most visitors know.

• Takieng Restaurant — The best Thai kitchen on the main road and a local institution. The yellow curry with fish (120 THB / $3.40) is rich, coconut-forward, and not dumbed down for tourist palates. Stir-fried basil chicken (100 THB / $2.85) has proper wok hei and real Thai holy basil, not the sweet basil substitution that lazy kitchens use. The massaman curry with chicken (130 THB / $3.70) is thick, peanut-rich, and one of the best versions I had on the Andaman coast. Lunch and dinner. Cash preferred but cards accepted.

• Khao Lak Seafood — Beachfront restaurant south of Nang Thong with tables on the sand. The grilled whole sea bass (250 THB / $7) comes with a lime-chili dipping sauce that makes the fish unnecessary to season further. Garlic prawns (200 THB / $5.70) are sweet and properly charred. Prawn pad Thai (100 THB / $2.85) is better than it has any right to be at a beachfront restaurant. Come at 5:30 PM for sunset over the Andaman and a table without waiting. Cash or card.

• Nang Thong Market — Evening food stalls in the town center that feel more local than tourist. Chicken satay with peanut sauce (30 THB / $0.85 per skewer), som tum papaya salad made to your spice preference (40 THB / $1.15), grilled pork on a stick (20 THB / $0.57), mango sticky rice (60 THB / $1.70), and pad kra pao from a wok so hot the basil wilts on contact (50 THB / $1.40). Walk the full strip before committing — the stalls near the back consistently have the shortest wait and best quality. Budget 150-250 THB ($4-7) for a multi-course graze.

• Smile Restaurant — A family-run Thai-Western spot on the Bang Niang stretch that does both sides well but excels at its Thai menu. The green curry with prawns (140 THB / $4) uses fresh coconut cream and enough heat to make you pause. Khao pad (fried rice) with crab (120 THB / $3.40) is simple and perfectly executed. The spring rolls (80 THB / $2.30) are house-made and crisp. The family that runs it remembers repeat visitors, which tells you something about the clientele. Lunch and dinner daily.

• Rak Talay — A small seafood restaurant on the road between Nang Thong and Bang Niang, popular with dive instructors and long-stay visitors. The steamed whole fish with lime and garlic (220 THB / $6.30) is the standout — delicate, aromatic, and large enough for two with rice. Tom yum goong (120 THB / $3.40) is properly sour, not sweetened into submission. The menu is short, which is always a good sign. Cash only. Open evenings.

• Bang Niang Market — Sunday and Wednesday evenings, this night market fills a parking lot on the Bang Niang strip with food stalls, craft vendors, and live music. Grilled squid on a stick (40 THB / $1.15), chicken biryani from a Muslim stall (60 THB / $1.70), coconut ice cream (30 THB / $0.85), and fresh fruit shakes (40 THB / $1.15). The atmosphere is relaxed and family-friendly. Budget 200-350 THB ($5.70-10) for dinner and dessert.

Where to Stay in Khao Lak

Accommodation in Khao Lak clusters along the beachfront road, with options ranging from budget guesthouses to sprawling luxury resorts. The town lacks the density of Phuket or Krabi, which means even mid-range hotels feel spacious rather than squeezed in. Most serious Similan divers choose accommodation near Tab Lamu Pier or in Nang Thong, where dive shops handle early-morning pickups. Families tend toward the larger resorts with pools and beach programs.

• Walker’s Inn — Clean, no-frills budget guesthouse on the main road in Nang Thong. The rooms are simple — air conditioning, hot water, a firm bed — and the location puts you within walking distance of restaurants, dive shops, and the beach. The owner is a former dive instructor who can recommend operators and routes. 500-800 THB ($14-23) per night. Best budget option in town for solo travelers and backpackers who spend their money underwater rather than on hotels.

• Khao Lak Bhandari Resort — A mid-range resort set back from the beach on landscaped grounds with a large pool, spa, and garden bungalows. The rooms are Thai-modern with dark wood and clean lines. The pool area is large enough that it never feels crowded even at capacity. A 5-minute walk to the beach through a garden path. 2,000-3,500 THB ($57-100) per night. Good value for couples who want resort amenities without the luxury price tag.

• La Flora Khao Lak — Beachfront resort with direct sand access, a stunning infinity pool, and spa treatments that draw from traditional Thai techniques. The rooms facing the Andaman Sea are worth the upgrade — waking up to that view sets the tone for the day. The restaurant serves competent Thai and Western dishes, though you will eat better at Takieng down the road. Service is attentive without hovering. 3,000-6,000 THB ($85-170) per night. My top pick for couples and families who want beachfront comfort and easy Similan logistics.

• The Sarojin — A boutique luxury resort on a secluded stretch of beach north of the main town. The 56-room property feels like a private estate — each room has a garden or pool view, the grounds are lush and unhurried, and the staff-to-guest ratio means you never wait for anything. The Ficus Restaurant serves refined Thai cuisine using local ingredients from the resort’s own garden. A champagne sundowner on the beach, arranged by the concierge without being asked, is the kind of touch that separates genuine luxury from expensive hotels. 8,000-18,000 THB ($225-510) per night. Best for couples seeking seclusion and polish.

• JW Marriott Khao Lak — The undisputed king of Khao Lak accommodation. A sprawling compound with three swimming pools (including a massive lagoon pool), over a kilometer of private beach, multiple restaurants, a kids’ club, fitness center, and the on-site Mai Khao Marine Turtle Foundation nursery. The rooms are large, modern, and impeccably maintained. The breakfast buffet — with a Thai cooking station, fresh tropical fruit, and an egg chef who makes omelets to order — is worth a night’s stay on its own. 7,000-15,000 THB ($200-425) per night. This is where Khao Lak proves it can compete with Phuket’s luxury resorts at a fraction of the crowd density.

The Boat That the Wave Carried

Two kilometers inland from the coast, on a cleared patch of ground surrounded by memorial plaques and frangipani trees, sits a Thai navy police patrol boat. Boat 813 weighs 60 tons. On December 26, 2004, the Indian Ocean tsunami lifted it from Khao Lak’s harbor and deposited it here, in a field that used to be someone’s backyard. Twenty years later, it has not been moved. It will not be moved. It is the largest single object displaced by the wave in Thailand, and standing beside it is the closest I have come to understanding the incomprehensible scale of what happened that morning.

I visited in the late afternoon, when the tour buses had left and the only other visitors were a Thai family placing flowers at the base. The hull is rusting now, streaked orange and brown, with vegetation growing through the deck. Plaques in a dozen languages line the pathway — names of the dead, messages from survivors, expressions of gratitude from countries that sent aid. The quiet is total. Not peaceful quiet — the silence of a place that absorbed something enormous and has not fully exhaled.

The International Tsunami Museum, a short drive south, fills in the human details that the boat cannot convey. Survivor accounts, photographs of the coast before and after, a seismograph display, and a wall of names. Entry is free. Donations fund ongoing disaster preparedness education in Phang Nga Province schools. I left a donation and sat in the parking lot for ten minutes before driving back to the hotel. Some places demand that kind of pause.

Where Can You Go from Khao Lak?

Khao Lak’s location between Phuket and Khao Sok makes it a natural base for day trips and multi-day excursions.

Similan Islands (1 hour by speedboat from Tab Lamu Pier) — Nine granite islands with Thailand’s best snorkeling and diving. Day trips run 2,200-3,500 THB ($63-100). Liveaboard trips for divers start at 15,000 THB ($425) for two nights and cover the full archipelago plus Richelieu Rock. Open November to mid-May only. This is the trip you came for — do not skip it.

Surin Islands (1.5 hours by speedboat) — Five islands north of the Similans, home to the Moken sea gypsy community and shallow reef systems ideal for snorkeling. Less visited than the Similans and equally beautiful. Day trips run 2,500-3,500 THB ($71-100). The cultural component — visiting the Moken village and learning about their semi-nomadic maritime life — adds a dimension that pure nature trips lack. Open November to May.

Khao Sok National Park (1.5 hours northeast by road) — One of the world’s oldest evergreen rainforests, with Cheow Lan Lake at its heart. Day trips include lake boating, jungle hiking, and canoeing for 1,500-3,000 THB ($43-85). Overnight floating raft houses on the lake (2,500-4,500 THB / $71-128 per person with meals) are the superior option — the sunrise alone justifies the extra night. See gibbons, hornbills, and if you are very lucky, wild elephants from a distance.

The Quiet That Stays with You

I arrived in Khao Lak expecting a diving waypoint — a place to sleep between boat trips, nothing more. I left with something harder to quantify. The town’s refusal to become another Patong is not a failure of ambition. It is a choice made by a community that rebuilt itself after the worst natural disaster in modern Thai history and decided, collectively, that quiet dignity was more valuable than neon signs and tourist volume.

The evening I remember most clearly had nothing to do with the Similans or Khao Sok. I was sitting at a plastic table outside a nameless restaurant on the Bang Niang road, eating a 50-baht plate of basil pork over rice, watching the sky turn orange over the Andaman. A dive instructor from Sweden at the next table was explaining buoyancy control to a couple from Japan, using salt and pepper shakers as reef formations. A Thai grandmother was sweeping the sidewalk in front of her shop. A dog was sleeping in the middle of the road with the confidence of an animal that knows no car will honk. It was ordinary in every way, and I would not have traded it for any sunset cocktail bar on the coast. Khao Lak does not try to impress you. It trusts that the ocean, the jungle, and the quiet will be enough. They are.