Chiang Mai

Discovering Chiang Mai

I came to Chiang Mai expecting temples and cheap massages. What I found was a city that had quietly become one of Southeast Asia’s most livable places — a place where digital nomads work from co-working cafes by morning, explore 700-year-old temples by afternoon, and eat 40 THB khao soi by night.

The Old City, ringed by its ancient moat and crumbling walls, is walkable and calm compared to Bangkok’s chaos. Within that square mile sit over 30 temples, each one different — golden Lanna-style stupas, teak meditation halls, moss-covered Buddha gardens. I spent three days just inside the moat and barely scratched the surface.

Outside the walls, Chiang Mai sprawls into Nimmanhaemin’s hipster cafes, the Ping River’s night restaurants, and the forested hills of Doi Suthep national park. It is a city that adjusts to your pace rather than demanding you match its own.

Chiang Mai is also where I understood what people mean when they say Thailand has layers. Bangkok is the first impression — electric and overwhelming. Chiang Mai is the second, quieter realization that this country has a northern soul completely different from its southern beaches and its capital city’s neon glow.

What Makes Chiang Mai Different?

Chiang Mai was the capital of the Lanna Kingdom for over 500 years, and that distinct cultural identity is still visible everywhere — in the temple architecture, the northern Thai dialect, the food. This is not just a smaller version of Bangkok. It’s a different Thailand entirely.

Khao soi (curry noodle soup) is the signature dish, available on almost every corner for 40-60 THB ($1-2). The coconut-milk curry broth, egg noodles, and crispy fried noodle topping is a combination you won’t find in southern Thailand. The city also has Thailand’s best cooking class scene, with dozens of schools offering half-day market-to-table experiences for around 1,000 THB ($28).

The mountain location gives Chiang Mai cooler weather than Bangkok — December and January nights can drop to 15°C (59°F), a genuine relief after the southern heat. Doi Suthep temple, perched 1,000 meters above the city, offers panoramic views and a 309-step naga staircase that is both a workout and a pilgrimage. And unlike the islands, Chiang Mai is affordable enough to stay for weeks — or months, as thousands of remote workers have discovered.

The Old City Temples

The Old City moat is a rectangle roughly 1.5 km on each side, and within it sits the densest concentration of Buddhist temples in northern Thailand. You could visit a different one every hour for three days and still miss some. Here are the ones that matter most.

Wat Phra Singh sits at the western end of Ratchadamnoen Road — the Old City’s main east-west artery. The Lanna-style chapel houses the Phra Singh Buddha, one of Thailand’s most revered images. The real draw is the Lai Kham chapel behind the main viharn, where 14th-century murals depict daily life in the Lanna Kingdom — merchants, elephants, courtship scenes, all painted in muted reds and golds. Free entry. Go early morning when the grounds are quiet and monks are sweeping.

Wat Chedi Luang anchors the center of the Old City with a massive 15th-century chedi (stupa) that was partially destroyed in a 1545 earthquake. At its peak it stood 82 meters tall — the largest structure in ancient Chiang Mai. What remains is still imposing, and the naga staircases flanking the base are some of the finest Lanna stonework you’ll see. The city pillar shrine sits in the grounds. Free entry, but monk chat sessions are available daily from 9-11 AM in English — one of the best cultural experiences in Chiang Mai.

Wat Umong is a 15-minute drive southwest of the Old City, but worth the trip for something completely different. This 14th-century forest temple has a network of tunnels beneath its stupa, originally built for meditation. The wooded grounds feel more like a park than a temple complex — deer roam freely, a small lake reflects the trees, and the atmosphere is contemplative in a way the busier Old City temples aren’t. Free entry.

Doi Suthep is the temple you can see from anywhere in the city — a golden spire on the mountainside, 15 km from the Old City and 1,000 meters above it. The 309-step naga staircase is the traditional approach (or take the funicular for 50 THB). At the top, the golden chedi gleams in the sun and panoramic views stretch across the city and the Ping River valley. Entrance 30 THB ($0.85). Red songthaews from the Old City charge 60 THB per person each way.

What to Do in Chiang Mai

Beyond temples, Chiang Mai offers experiences you can’t find anywhere else in Thailand.

Cooking Classes — Chiang Mai’s signature activity. Thai Farm Cooking School and Mama Noi are both excellent. A typical half-day class (800-1,200 THB / $23-34) starts with a guided tour of Warorot Market to buy ingredients, then moves to an outdoor kitchen where you cook 4-5 dishes — usually pad Thai, green curry, tom yum, papaya salad, and mango sticky rice. You eat everything you cook and take home a recipe book. Book at least a day ahead during November-February.

Sunday Walking Street — Chiang Mai’s best market runs along Ratchadamnoen Road from Tha Phae Gate to Wat Phra Singh every Sunday from 4 PM to midnight. Handmade crafts, local art, clothing, and a food section that rivals any night market in Thailand — sai oua (northern sausage), khao kha moo (braised pork leg), mango sticky rice, and fresh coconut ice cream. Saturday Walking Street on Wualai Road is smaller but less crowded and equally good. Both are free to walk.

Night Bazaar — Open every evening on Chang Khlan Road. More tourist-oriented than the Walking Streets, but convenient if you’re visiting midweek. Expect clothing, souvenirs, and electronics alongside food stalls. Quality varies — bargain hard on anything without a price tag.

Doi Inthanon National Park — Thailand’s highest peak (2,565 m) is 90 minutes southwest of Chiang Mai. The twin pagodas near the summit are stunning — one dedicated to the King, one to the Queen, surrounded by manicured gardens with views over cloud-covered valleys. The Wachirathan waterfall hike is moderate and rewarding. The temperature at the top can drop to 5°C in December — bring a jacket. Entrance 300 THB ($8.50) for foreigners. Day trips from Chiang Mai run 1,200-2,000 THB ($34-57).

Ethical Elephant Encounters — Skip any place that offers rides or performances. Elephant Nature Park (2,500 THB / $71 for a full-day visit) is the gold standard — walk with rescued elephants, feed them, watch them bathe in the river, and learn about conservation efforts. Book well in advance, they sell out weeks ahead in high season.

Chiang Mai Night Safari — A well-maintained night zoo 12 km from the Old City. Open-air tram rides through enclosures with deer, giraffes, zebras, and big cats. More family-friendly than adventurous, but kids love it. 800 THB ($23) for foreigners. Opens at 6 PM.

Nimmanhaemin (Nimman) Walk — Chiang Mai’s trendiest neighborhood for coffee, boutique shopping, and gallery-hopping. The sois off Nimmanhaemin Road are packed with independent cafes that rival Melbourne or Portland for quality. Ristr8to is consistently ranked among Asia’s best coffee shops. Walk Soi 9 and Soi 13 for the highest concentration of good spots.

Where to Eat in Chiang Mai

Chiang Mai’s food scene is built on northern Thai cuisine — distinct from Bangkok’s central Thai flavors. Expect more herbs, fermented ingredients, sticky rice, and milder coconut curries replaced by rich, earthy broths.

• Khao Soi Khun Yai — Widely considered the best khao soi in the city. The chicken version is the standard order — rich coconut curry broth, soft egg noodles, crispy noodle topping, pickled cabbage and shallots on the side. 50 THB ($1.40). Cash only, closes at 2 PM, often earlier when they sell out. Near Wat Ku Tao, north of the Old City.

• SP Chicken (Cherng Doi Roast Chicken) — Rotisserie chicken with Isaan-style dipping sauce that has been pulling crowds to Chang Phueak Gate since the 1980s. Half chicken 120 THB ($3.40), full chicken 200 THB ($5.70). The charcoal-roasted skin is perfectly crispy. Open lunch through early evening.

• Tong Tem Toh — Northern Thai dishes in a lively atmosphere that draws locals and expats in equal measure. The sai oua (Chiang Mai sausage), larb muang (northern-style minced pork), and nam prik ong (tomato chili dip with pork rinds) are all excellent. Mains 80-180 THB ($2-5). Nimmanhaemin area, expect a 20-30 minute wait at dinner. No reservations.

• Huen Phen — A Chiang Mai institution serving northern Thai food in a wooden house filled with antiques. Lunch is casual and cheap (40-80 THB / $1-2.30), dinner is a sit-down affair in the atmospheric main room (mains 120-250 THB / $3.40-7). The gaeng hang lay (northern pork belly curry) is the must-order. Ratchamankha Road, Old City.

• Cowboy Hat Lady (Paad Thai Fai Ta Lu) — The famous noodle vendor at Chang Phueak Gate night market who cooks pad Thai in a massive flaming wok. The show is half the appeal. Pad Thai 40-60 THB ($1-1.70). Evening only, look for the line.

• Warorot Market Food Hall — The ground floor of Chiang Mai’s oldest market is a no-frills food court with stall after stall of northern Thai cooking. Khao kha moo (braised pork leg on rice) for 40 THB, kanom jeen (rice noodles with curry) for 30 THB, and fresh tropical fruit smoothies for 25 THB. Best visited 8-11 AM when everything is freshly made.

For more on northern Thai cuisine and regional differences, see our cuisine guide.

Where to Stay in Chiang Mai

Chiang Mai’s accommodation is among Thailand’s best values. The Old City puts you within walking distance of temples and markets. Nimmanhaemin is better for cafes and nightlife. The Ping River area offers quieter boutique options.

• Stamps Backpackers — Social hostel inside the Old City moat with a pool, bar, and communal kitchen. Dorms from 250 THB ($7) per night, private rooms from 700 THB ($20). The rooftop terrace is a great spot to meet other travelers. Walking distance to Tha Phae Gate.

• Buri Gallery House — A quiet boutique guesthouse tucked behind Tha Phae Gate. Clean rooms with Lanna-style decor, a garden courtyard with breakfast tables, and genuinely friendly staff. 1,200-1,800 THB ($34-51) per night. Our go-to mid-range pick — the location is perfect for the Old City without the noise.

• Villa Mahabhirom — A hidden gem inside the Old City walls. Restored Lanna-style villas around a garden and saltwater pool. The architecture alone is worth the stay — teak pavilions, antique furniture, outdoor stone bathtubs. 3,500-6,000 THB ($100-170) per night. A splurge that feels like staying in someone’s private estate.

• 137 Pillars House — Colonial-era teak mansion on the Ping River, built in the 1880s for the East Borneo Company. The pool overlooks the river, the restaurant serves exceptional northern Thai cuisine, and the suites have four-poster beds and private balconies. 8,000-15,000 THB ($225-425) per night. Chiang Mai’s finest hotel by a clear margin.

• Hostel by Bed — A step above basic hostels with pod-style beds, excellent air conditioning, and a central Old City location near Tha Phae Gate. 300-500 THB ($8.50-14) per night. Clean, quiet, and well-run. Good for solo travelers who want rest over socializing.

Morning at the Moat

The best time to see Chiang Mai is before 7 AM. The moat water is glass-still and reflects the old brick walls and the trees lining both sides. A few joggers and monks pass on the path. Food vendors are setting up — congee carts, grilled sticky rice, iced coffee stands. The air is cool enough to actually enjoy walking.

I found a rhythm on my last visit: wake at 6, walk the eastern moat from Tha Phae Gate to Suan Dok Gate, stop at whatever congee cart was already steaming, then loop back through the Old City as the temples were opening. No tourists, no tuk-tuk touts, no selfie sticks — just the city before it puts on its public face.

One morning I stumbled into a merit-making ceremony at Wat Phan Tao. A line of monks walked single-file through the wooden temple grounds while locals knelt with offerings of rice and fruit. Nobody invited me in, but nobody asked me to leave either. I sat on a stone bench and watched for twenty minutes. The teak chapel behind them is one of the most beautiful buildings in Chiang Mai — all dark wood and gold leaf, built entirely without nails.

Those quiet mornings stayed with me longer than any night market or cooking class. They’re the reason I tell people to spend at least four days in Chiang Mai — not for the itinerary, but for the moments that happen when you stop following one.

Day Trips from Chiang Mai

Chiang Mai’s northern location makes it the gateway to Thailand’s hill country.

Chiang Rai (200 km north, 3 hours by bus) — Home to the White Temple (Wat Rong Khun), the Blue Temple, and the Black House art museum. Green Bus runs every 30 minutes from Chiang Mai’s Arcade Bus Station for 166-288 THB ($5-8). Doable as a day trip but better with an overnight stay. See our full Chiang Rai guide.

Pai (135 km northwest, 3 hours by minivan) — A sleepy mountain town in a valley surrounded by rice paddies and hot springs. The 762-curve road from Chiang Mai is legendary. Minivans from Arcade Station run 150 THB ($4.30). Most people stay 2-3 nights. See our full Pai guide.

Doi Inthanon (90 km southwest, 1.5 hours) — Thailand’s highest point with twin royal pagodas, waterfalls, and Karen village homestays. Best done as a day trip or combined with a night at a mountain guesthouse. Park entrance 300 THB ($8.50).

Why People Stay

Chiang Mai has a gravitational pull that catches people off guard. Travelers budget three days and stay two weeks. Digital nomads come for a month and renew their visa for six. Retirees visit once and start looking at condos.

It’s not because Chiang Mai is exciting — it’s because it’s balanced. The food is extraordinary and absurdly cheap. The temples are genuinely beautiful without the crowds of Bangkok’s tourist circuit. The weather is pleasant for half the year. The mountains are right there. And the pace of life makes space for the things most cities crowd out — a long lunch, an unplanned walk, an afternoon reading in a temple garden.

I’ve been to Chiang Mai four times now and each visit felt like I was only beginning to know it. The last time, I found a jazz bar on a Ping River side street that served Chiang Mai craft beer and played live music to a crowd of maybe fifteen people. No sign outside, no TripAdvisor listing, just locals who knew. That’s Chiang Mai in a nutshell — it rewards the people who stay long enough to find the things it doesn’t advertise.